Saturday, October 22, 2011

Snowshill Quilted Jacket: Construction, Completed


Happy October, my friends.  I do hope you are enjoying weather as mild and crisp as we are.  It's fabulous.  The trees have been turning colors for the past two to three weeks.  I love this time of year.  

Well...it's finally done...my interpretation of the Snowshill Jacket, that is.  Last weekend I ventured out into this beautiful Autumn weather to a local historic landmark called McConnell Springs, wondering around the trails.


I thought the setting rather appropriate for taking photos of my new jacket, considering the Springs were discovered when our city was founded in the mid to late 18th century.  The history of the Springs is rather fascinating, and you can read more about it on their site.  I'm wearing my jacket, of course, with modern clothing...which was the goal. 

I'm extremely happy with how the jacket turned out.  I will say, though, that it isn't the most ideal for wearing over modern clothing.  The bottom of the false front hits at the natural waist, and unless I'm wearing a skirt/shirt combo, or a dress that does the same, it looks a little silly (like in the these pictures of me wearing jeans and a t-shirt.)  Also, (and this is my stupidity coming into play here) I didn't take into account how thick modern, winter clothing is, and didn't put enough ease into the jacket.  It is extremely snug and hard to get on and off over my clothing.

I've put in a series of pictures of the jacket on my manikin, so that you can get a clearer look at the details from every angle.

I didn't place any boning in the jacket, and the false front, instead of being pinned like it would have been, is held together with very large hook and eyes. 

One issue I'm having (and feel free to chime in here if you know of any solutions) is with the lapels.  They stick out, like you see above, and no amount of ironing can get them to lay flat. This bothers me more than a little.

I didn't put any pleated ruffles on the cuffs of the sleeves.  I love the way they look on the original Snowshill jacket, but in modern life, they look a little too theatrical for me.  Besides, I was working with limited "recycled" wool, and didn't have enough for two cuffs.

The back of the jacket is most definitely my favorite part of the whole thing.  From the billowing hood, to the trapunto quilted feathers, to the deep pleats...it is all such a striking combination.

Well, it's been a long uphill battle with this jacket, but in the end I think it was worth it.  I could probably hand quilt in my sleep now.

Now...any ideas for what could be next?  I think I've lost my Muse, because I can't think of anything.

 

6 comments:

Verdaera said...

Gorgeous, I love the quilting details!

For the lapel, you may want to put in a roll line. Because your inner fabric rolls over your outer fabric, technically it is made a little shorter than your outer fabric (or more of your outer fabric is on the inside of the lapel, forcing it to stick out). If it's convenient, your outer fabric should be about 1/8" smaller than the inner, to eliminate the bulk. Google roll lines too, it might be easier than me explaining... basically, while on the dummy, you play with the collar til it lies smooth, pin, and stitch a basting line under the lapel, about 1/4" from where it folds over. Your fabric will look shifted a bit when laying flat, but will keep it rolled nice when on you. As a last resort, you can always add a little swingtack to keep it from straying too far from your body. :) Hope that helped!

Kleidung um 1800 said...

It's so beautiful, Jenni!
On the dress form it almost looks like a museum piece! The quilting is stunning!
And although you might be right that it looks a bit unusual in combination with modern clothing first, I do hope you'll wear this often!!!

Sabine

P.S. Don't worry, the next project surely lurks in some book or website already, just waiting to hop into your attention;)

Jenni said...

Verdaera - Thank you. A roll line makes perfect sense. And I feel rather stupid for not thinking of it to begin with. I used that technique when making my husband's frock coat. I haven't a clue why I didn't think of it this time. Thanks for reminding me, I knew there was something missing. And thank you for commenting on my blog. I love it when new voices show up in the comments!

Sabine - Seriously...a museum piece!?! ha!ha! You are too kind. But really, I thank you for the compliment. If it wasn't for encouragement, I think I would give up sewing.

Laura said...

Wow, that turned out to be absolutely darling! Maybe I spend too much time shopping with my teenagers, but I don't think the front looks that odd. There are some crazy combinations of layers on the store mannequins these days. The flare on the skirt is really nice too.

Too bad about the ease. That's just the kind of miscalculation I would make. Hopefully you'll still have plenty of opportunities to wear it, because it looks great on you.

ZipZip said...

Dear Jenni,

Hooray on a truly fabulous jacket. Once you deal with that lapel, you've got a winner. A modal top with a cami underneath would be warm enough I bet, and with minimal bulk. Plus, you're getting thinner: I can tell in the photos!

Congratulations all around,

Natalie

Nabila Grace said...

Absolutely stunning! It's even more beautiful then I imagined! Bravo! And once again the back is my favorite part as well!