Pelisse/Robe Update

I've progressed a little more on my "Marianne" Pelisse.

The bodice is nearly finished.  So sorry for the loose, wrinkled appearance.  I didn't bother straightening everything since I'm not finished with it.  I'm not completely satisfied with the pleats in the front.  I made four on each side, so I could "get a good snug fit" to the bodice, but now, I don't know, I just think they look weird.  I'm hoping that maybe, once I get the skirt attached to the bodice, the weight of the fabric will pull down on the bodice, eliminating the strange, "puckered" look at the ends of the pleats.  Any advice on this is appreciated.  Also, I'm debating on putting in a band or not around the waist.  What would be more historically appropriate?....what would be more aesthetically pleasing?....attach the skirt straight onto the bodice, or create a one or two inch band to place between the two?

Here's a close-up of the hand done pick-stitching on the lapel and collar.  So far, about 50% of the coat is hand stitched.

Here's the back.  I'm happy with the fit, since it is a coat, I want it to be a bit loose, but I'm not pleased with the bunching at the base of the collar.  I might try to rework this, but, again, I'm not sure how to fix the problem.

Here's a close-up of the back-stitching done by hand on the seams.  This was done AFTER the seams were constructed, more as a decoration than anything.

Next up, the sleeves.... 

 Did I say I wanted this finished by the time my Birthday came around?....It's next Wednesday....Do you think I'll make it?


Sarah Jane said…
Wow, that looks fabulous! I especially love the collar.

I think the pleats may be poking at the point a bit, because the coat is made to be a bit loose and there is not flesh to fill and round out the shape of the pleats. . .I have had this problem on making 1860's dresses before. I don't really know how to fix the problem unless you make it more fitted, which would really be difficult for a coat. . .:( Could you make darts instead? A dart can have the curve of the bosom built into it, and if you stitch for an inch or so exactly on the fold of the dart, beyond the point of it, you won't have any puckering but a smooth rounded shape.

I have had similar bunching problems with 1860's dresses if I cut the back neckline too high. Maybe that could be a reason why yours is doing that? It still looks great however, all the hand stitching just really sets it off so beautifully!

I can't wait to see it finished!
Jenni said…
Thank you, Sarah. I might try that. Also, I was thinking about taking out the pleats and lightly gathering it....what do you think of that idea? I haven't seen many fashion plates of pelisse's with a gathered bodice....and the "Marianne" coat is not like that...but I know that there are gowns made in this style.
Nabila Grace said…
Oh it's looking lovely! :o) The detail is so beautiful! :o) Can't wait to see it finished! :o)

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