Monday, January 28, 2013

Historical Sew Fortnightly: Challenge #2

Challenge #2 of the Dreamstress' Historical Sew Fortnightly event is an UFO (un-finished object.)  I'm a day late, as usual, and it's been a long day.  So, please forgive the brief post, plus the deluge of dark photos(dreary weather means bad lighting.)  If you have any questions, I will be glad to answer them.  

Otherwise, it's just the facts:

The Challenge: UFO - My 1884 Gypsy Jacket. Cut out, but never sewn.  Technically, this is STILL an UFO, because I don't have the trim/braid/buttons on the front of the jacket(I will be saving this for another challenge).  You can read more about this former project HERE!

Fabric: Outer fabric, wool-blend plaid. Lining, cotton.  Cuffs and collars, cotton velvet.

Pattern: Truly Victorian French Vest Pattern, with some alterations to the front to make it look more like the Gypsie Jacket in The Wonderful World of Ladies' Fashion: 1850-1920.

Year:1884

Notions: Thread, hooks and eyes.

How historically accurate is it? The pattern and design are historically accurate.  I'm not sure about the construction...I followed the directions in the pattern for most of it, but improvised for the altered front.  I machine sewed about 3/4 of it, and hand sewed the rest.  I did NOT put boning in the jacket, as the pattern requested.  I DO think boning would help with smoothing out the the fabric on the bodice, and with holding the bodice close to the body, but I didn't have any boning on hand, and I don't have the money right now to purchase any.

Hours to complete:  Again...I don't know.  I'm guessing about 12ish, maybe more.

First worn: Not worn yet.

Total cost: Maybe $25-$30...it was all from my stash.








 Still an UFO...but much further along now.


Monday, January 14, 2013

Historical Sew Fortnightly: Challenge #1

The first offical challenge of the Historical Sew Fortnightly event, hosted by The Dreamstress, was due yesterday.  I seem to be a day late posting my project, once again.  The theme: something ‘Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial’...in other words, any year ending in '13.  

I chose 1813.  

My inspiration...


...this 1813 yellow spencer fashion plate, which I found on the Dames a la Mode site...


...and the 1795-1810 Salisbury Museum riding habit in pale blue (found in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1.)


My 1813 Spencer has the button-down, front closure of the Salisbury Museum habit, and the sleeves, ruffled collar and waist-band of the fashion plate.  I really enjoyed this project.  I'm extremely pleased with the ruffles.  I used the salvage edge of the fabric, and it has a sort of 'furry' effect to it.




 And *SHOCK* the long sleeves...I love.  I've never done a project where the sleeves came out so perfectly, with no issues at all.  It was a small miracle.  I get kind of giddy when I try on the jacket, because I love how the sleeves go all the way down to my knuckles.



It is all hand sewn, of course.  And let me just say...if I haven't before...that I am a terrible button hole maker, so don't look too closely.  Also, the only buttons I had on hand were dark colored bone buttons.  I have a feeling the buttons on the above spencer would have been fabric covered, or metallic (military inspired) ones.  I used what I had.  In the future, if I can find military inspired buttons of a similar size, I might switch them out.  The only thing about this project that I'm not that pleased with (besides the button holes)...the darts.  They turned out just a bit too pointed for my taste.  Does anyone have any tips or tricks for making a more curved dart?  I always have trouble with this.


 I don't have any 1813 gowns, all of mine are between late 1790's and 1810.  The line of of 1813 gowns are much less 'classical' in line, and more 'romantically' inspired...higher hem...more of an A-line shape starting to appear...etc.  So, sorry for the inconsistency of display.  Maybe this calls for a gown of a later date to be made?



The unglamorous inside.
 

I used a very narrow tape at the shoulder and waist to hold the left front panel tight across the bust.

 If you have any other questions, please ask.  It was fun!

  Just The Facts:

The Challenge: Spencer/Riding Habit

Fabric: Cotton velvet, lined with block printed cotton

Pattern: Draped/drafted

Year:1813

Notions: thread, 1/8in tape, embroidery floss, buttons

How historically accurate is it? Yes, it's hand sewn, using appropriate seam construction and fabric, and the design is based off of a fashion plate, and garment in Patterns of Fashion 1.

Hours to complete: Too many...I don't know...maybe 20ish...maybe more?  I'm really not good at keeping track of time spent on projects.

First worn: Hasn't been worn...yet.

Total cost: The fabric was from my stash, but originally would have cost about $40, I think.

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Historical Sew Fortnightly: Challenge #0


 The Historical Sew Fortnightly event, Challenge #0: Starting Simple, hosted by The Dreamstress was due yesterday.  Technically, I was finished with my project by 9:00pm last evening...so, I just barely made it in time for the challenge.  But, the lighting wasn't good enough to take pictures of my project, so, I'm posting today.  So sorry for my tardiness.

  Happy New Year, by the way!
 
 
I really thought that making a cape would be a "starting simple" kind of project.  But, it was actually a lot of hand sewing to do.  Granted, it was cut simply, and had no crazy seams or fiddly buttons, etc, but the hand sewing just went on and on for days...straight seams, and nothing fun.  


I'm not even sure I'm that pleased with it.  I mean, it's a plain, wool, working class cloak...meant only to keep a body warm.  Nothing special. But, it did ease me back into the historical sewing world...which, of course, was the whole point.


I'm looking forward to the next Challenge.  The challenge is due on January 14th.  I'm making a spencer from 1813...and it's made of velvet!  Now THIS I am excited about!


Just the facts, Ma’am:

The Challenge: Starting Simple: A late 18th century cloak.

Fabric: Wool broadcloth, lined in the hood with block printed cotton, and lined in the cape with linen.

Pattern: None, I draped it.  But the over all shape of the cloak was inspired by the one in
Costume Close-up 1750-1790 (and several other capes throughout the cyber-museum sphere: namely here, here, here, here, herehere and here.)

Year: Late 18th century - early Regency

Notions: Cotton thread, two hooks and eyes

How historically accurate is it?  Very historically accurate, I hope.  It's completely hand sewn, using period techniques, and using appropriate fabrics.

Hours to complete: About 10 or 15???? (I'm guessing here...next time I will have to keep track.)

First worn: I haven't worn it yet.

Total cost: $40 (Also guessing here...as all of the fabric came from my stash, and was bought months or years ago.)