tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88518403662511432912024-03-13T05:51:41.611-04:00Living with JaneJennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.comBlogger325125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-61372243530053336642017-10-21T12:39:00.004-04:002017-10-21T12:39:38.480-04:00Wooly Friends<div style="text-align: center;">
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I've been busy playing with wool, and felting some cuddly creatures. You can check them out over at <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/TrinketAndCrow">my Esty shop</a>.</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-23864591277758898442017-08-07T12:45:00.000-04:002017-08-07T12:45:05.072-04:00Summer's End<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm back to school this week. Here's a look at my final Summer projects...</div>
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A mischievous fox named "Faina" is available in <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/535637208/fox-faina-printmaking-art-scandinavian?ref=shop_home_active_1">my Etsy Shop.</a></div>
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And I free-styled this Japanese cherry tree embroidery piece.</div>
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Now...unfortunately, I'm back to work.</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-33524536428648009112017-07-18T11:16:00.000-04:002017-07-18T11:16:12.958-04:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Trinket & Crow is having a Grand Opening Sale now through the end of August! Head on over to <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/TrinketAndCrow">my shop</a> and enter the coupon code GRANDOPENING at check-out to get free shipping!</div>
Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-90320101430474451282017-07-14T15:36:00.003-04:002017-07-14T15:36:55.156-04:00Trinket & Crow<br />
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It is unfortunate that I only make it back to this blog once a year. I do miss sharing my projects with you. Regretfully, I've put costuming on hold in order to focus more on printmaking. It seems I only have enough time to focus on one creative endeavor at a time.</div>
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If you are interested in seeing what I've been working on, or are interested in purchasing a print, then please head on over to <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/TrinketAndCrow">my shop on Etsy, Trinket & Crow</a> . I appreciate your support more than I can say.</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-60793755846253420732016-06-12T07:53:00.000-04:002016-06-12T07:53:27.327-04:00Debucourt - Modes et Manières Du Jour ... and other things.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3V38AXDU90GjpJ54_uwsrbWnaYEn07BdC9gQtJPfo8R7Lbm372DikmJKCp0ABl6LvblzXBL14CR2q6aMn7N7aqorKHfGznQaQnYlLkNLKDwwEA7Joth_9jkMf_XM8dtO8JDoCfuekqbk/s1600/me.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3V38AXDU90GjpJ54_uwsrbWnaYEn07BdC9gQtJPfo8R7Lbm372DikmJKCp0ABl6LvblzXBL14CR2q6aMn7N7aqorKHfGznQaQnYlLkNLKDwwEA7Joth_9jkMf_XM8dtO8JDoCfuekqbk/s400/me.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I'm back. Did you miss me? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">2015 was a personally difficult year for me. I'm sorry for the silence, but I needed to take the last few months off to retreat and recover. I'm not even sure I want to continue blogging. I don't really have any inclination to write. I think, mostly, this place has become a way for me to document what I create. And if that's the way it's going, then I'm ok with that. I hope you are too.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">There is a small group of historical costumers that are currently working on a fashion plate project, and I'm a part of that group. It's similar to the Vernet project, but less public and more relaxed. We've all chosen an ensemble, or a piece of an ensemble, from a collection of plates by <b style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">Philibert-Louis Debucourt</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">, (13 February 1755 – 22 September 1832) a French painter and engraver. Most of the plates fall between the years 1800 and 1808, I believe. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">The plate that I've chosen can be found printed in at least two different color schemes, the one in green and pink was reprinted in 1957, the red and white one...I don't have a reprint date for that one. I haven't found the original print, so I don't know what Debucourt intended the colors to be. Honestly, it doesn't really matter to me. I love the green and pink color combination. But, I've included the red and white one, because I prefer the under-bust cut of the jacket, and the green and pink version has it painted as if it covers the bust completely. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">The gown is made of a fine linen, and the jacket is a light-weight wool. Both are trimmed in black, silk ribbon. As usual, everything is hand sewn.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">And some boring construction photos... </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">Documentation, blah, blah, blah...</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">Scroll down for more exciting stuff...</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">On the more interesting side...</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">I found an antique, hand woven, lace mantilla that works perfectly for this outfit.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">I'm planning on wearing this ensemble at the Jane Austen Festival this year, so be prepared for a downpour of pictures later next month.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">And in other news...</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">I've been playing around with calligraphy.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; line-height: 22.4px;">The <a href="http://www.hmsacasta.com/">HMS Acasta</a> holds a call for letters each year, and they normally open the mail packet at the Jane Austen Festival. I decided to contribute to the packet this year. I had a little fun making wills, advertisements, and forging British bank notes! I've covered the names of the crew members, because who gets what is a secret for now. There's still time for you to contribute to the mail packet if you would like. And there's still time for you to register to go to the 8th annual <a href="http://jasnalouisville.com/">Jane Austen Festival</a> in Louisville, KY. You don't want to miss that!</span></span></div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-48937614758044908222016-01-01T19:30:00.000-05:002016-01-01T19:30:15.874-05:00Vernet 1814: The Final Post - Fashion Plate Reveal<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 12.88px; text-align: start;">Plate No.6 "Chapeau de Levantine. Canezou de Velour. Robe de Perkale."</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 12.88px; text-align: start;">Translation: "Silk hat. Velvet Canezou(a style of Spencer popular in 1811.) Perkale(a densely woven cotton similar to bed sheets) gown."</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 12.88px; text-align: start;">You've already seen the details, so this post is devoted to my fashion shoot, and the ensemble as a whole. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 12.88px; text-align: start;">Let me begin by saying that the chapeau and canezou are both uncomfortable to wear. The hat is stiff, and the canezou, in order to mimic the fashion plate, is skin tight...not to mention the height of the collar (plus the fact that it is boned to help it stand) made me feel like I was wearing a neck brace. There was definitely very little range of movement, and this outfit will feel hellish during the Summer months. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 12.88px; text-align: start;"> That being said, the ensemble as a whole is quite luxurious. The cotton/silk velvet...the crisp perkale...the silk and the ostrich feathers as light as air...the swish of the fringe and ruffles...the high hem, showing off the little thin soled, silk boots...I felt like a doll come to life. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 12.88px;">Imagine wearing an evening gown from a top designer today, and you get the picture. </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 12.88px; text-align: start;"> High fashion it certainly was! </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH-5emI6dPLftMUw2gHtFM2BxzgSVpXzPEW4zK13bXsncajqZQFL5caF9Kb1-dhooTG3x1yzOrnsRxJM17ZkhajHNA6V3lw8IaqbyYBPLVrU8NslhZFOfMeJWzk9uI5k6_mB2TA9A3-v8/s1600/535080_10153388801993107_6924731724034785848_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH-5emI6dPLftMUw2gHtFM2BxzgSVpXzPEW4zK13bXsncajqZQFL5caF9Kb1-dhooTG3x1yzOrnsRxJM17ZkhajHNA6V3lw8IaqbyYBPLVrU8NslhZFOfMeJWzk9uI5k6_mB2TA9A3-v8/s400/535080_10153388801993107_6924731724034785848_n.jpg" width="220" /></a></div>
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The whole process was a journey that I would gladly take again (but maybe not this year!) What a treat it was to work along side so many knowledgeable historical seamstresses, and to become friends with people that live in several different countries. Were there frustrations? Yes. Were there expenses that I wouldn't normally have put into an outfit? Yes. But these annoyances were nothing compared to a year of learning by experience. </div>
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My least favorite part of this head-to-toe experience...making the hat. Milliner, I am not!</div>
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My favorite part about this ensemble...learning how to make the boots! Maybe I'll become a cobbler?! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzmyNa3VTTwanZUWXB36KwcyJM9UQ8VvuleSmj6wOO7N8J9rCaqdsPS4tq_BnHpYHjrhUyUPtPKyRMxsoTBhgNVCd4fhaqpaA0SaCpQU7Dcx2tzXSLVnSEg5KdvOctXNtz5RI_3qBQZs/s1600/Untitled.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzmyNa3VTTwanZUWXB36KwcyJM9UQ8VvuleSmj6wOO7N8J9rCaqdsPS4tq_BnHpYHjrhUyUPtPKyRMxsoTBhgNVCd4fhaqpaA0SaCpQU7Dcx2tzXSLVnSEg5KdvOctXNtz5RI_3qBQZs/s400/Untitled.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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One unanswered question though...what is she looking at?!...what is she reading?!</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-72662442095499480922015-12-31T19:30:00.000-05:002015-12-31T19:30:18.086-05:00Vernet 1814: The Spencer - Construction<div style="text-align: center;">
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Let's learn about the spencer in my Vernet fashion plate, shall we..<br />
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First off...it's actually called a Canezou, which was a very popular style of outerwear in 1811. Made of cotton/silk velvet, lined with silk, decorated with fringe, and EXTREMELY tight fitting, this is a luxury garment in every way.<br />
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I decided to try out a new (to me) stitch that was used in the early 19th century (and previously,) the Bourdon Stitch. <a href="http://zipzipinkspot.blogspot.com/">Natalie</a> tipped me off (and we experimented together) on this stitch. Our knowledge was gleaned from <a href="http://tempsdelegance.com/2013/10/manches-de-la-robe-18e-44.html">Temps d'Elegance</a>. She's such an incredibly smart woman, and her blog is an invaluable resource. She has a drawn out tutorial of this stitching method on her blog, but I wanted to give you a visual of how it worked out for me.<br />
You start with sewing each piece separately with a simple running-back stitch, lining and outer fabric together, right-sides facing each other. Once the piece is sewn at the seam, turn the piece right side out and press. At this point, there should be NO seam allowance.<br />
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Pin one piece to the next, right sides facing each other.</div>
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Knot the end of your thread, and start by placing the needle through the edge of the lining on the right piece. Pull the thread all the way through.</div>
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Next, cross your needle over to the left side piece, and pierce all the way through the two layers of outer fabric right at the edge.</div>
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Pull the thread all the way through and tighten slightly. You're creating a hinge here, so you don't want it too tight. Then, begin again just a few centimeters above that stitch....pierce through the right side lining fabric at the edge...cross your needle over to the left side, and pierce through both layers of outer fabric...pull tight...begin again, etc, etc.</div>
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Once you've gone all the way up the seam, it will look like this.</div>
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Open the fabric at the seam, and use your fingers to work up the 'spine' of the seam until the piece is flat.<br />
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Turn the piece over, and it will look like this from the outside.<br />
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Attach together each piece of the bodice in the same fashion.<br />
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Here's a peek at the inside of the Canezou. Attaching the collar and decorative hem was done after the sleeves. Short sleeves only are sewn onto the body of the spencer. I stitched on narrow tape ties to the sleeve seams, so that I could attach the long sleeves at my convenience.<br />
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I have been affectionately calling the long sleeves "lobster claws." <br />
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The cuff is finger length, and decorative triangles rim the edge. The long sleeves in the fashion plate are skin tight. To make sure my sleeves fit as close as possible, I cut the fabric on the bias, so that it had a bit of a stretch to it.<br />
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Let's talk fringe for a moment. I made a post previously about how I was following in the footsteps of the frangeirs. Let's just say that I couldn't keep up with them. I loved the weaving process, but my fringe just wasn't turning out good enough for this project. Perhaps it was the material I was using...silk chenille is a beast that refuses to be tamed. So, in the end, I purchased rayon (yes I know, it's not period) fringe. Rayon is very close to silk in feel and quality, and it worked perfectly for this project.<br />
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I'm not really into fringe normally, so as soon as this outfit gets one good wear out of it, I plan on removing the fringe from the short sleeves and redoing them.</div>
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The collar...oh, the collar...so fashionably high and stiff...but so impractical! Four inches high at its peak, it is boned to make it stand. Decorated with triangle trimming around the top edge, if the sleeves are "lobster claws," then the collar is a "dragons mouth." Again, this will be something I alter. I love the design, but lowering the height of the collar will make this spencer much more practical to wear at events.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1lzkjef3JGFmo0Wtoslyfdy0seoaKK5UTQ4ibxSKCzU91CQYqMawWqnBRIbG9tgzLAfMKU3_gk0RmWiEbaUtAKshQdEvWgezly85z9RhSPKt0fDNsd4ppSDKpVzBFR01yk5I1JmlJA6A/s1600/1509891_10153388790393107_2810154857052505174_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1lzkjef3JGFmo0Wtoslyfdy0seoaKK5UTQ4ibxSKCzU91CQYqMawWqnBRIbG9tgzLAfMKU3_gk0RmWiEbaUtAKshQdEvWgezly85z9RhSPKt0fDNsd4ppSDKpVzBFR01yk5I1JmlJA6A/s400/1509891_10153388790393107_2810154857052505174_n.jpg" width="220" /></a></div>
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The back of the canezou is cut with a typical diamond shape. There is no shortage of spencers made in this common fashion, and it wasn't hard to find more examples of this kind through museum extant pieces or other fashion plates. Take a look at <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/jenni_miller79/fashion-regency-1790-1820/">my Pinterest board</a> for a plethora of similar images.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicpmHQ0VpWp1eN1HnASPci2Gajfoxj5ipBSizpjx6mU_5PE_J5kR-jFRw66oISujNjegtv3QvIRPYKSvqVrcO7ZtahgUMmuQpyz8TMAZXHFSXKEls2Ru5lqcyJwZrzVzHgs_KIYUKUir4/s1600/10399791_10153388790188107_3123832653529790402_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicpmHQ0VpWp1eN1HnASPci2Gajfoxj5ipBSizpjx6mU_5PE_J5kR-jFRw66oISujNjegtv3QvIRPYKSvqVrcO7ZtahgUMmuQpyz8TMAZXHFSXKEls2Ru5lqcyJwZrzVzHgs_KIYUKUir4/s400/10399791_10153388790188107_3123832653529790402_n.jpg" width="220" /></a></div>
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The last piece of the puzzle is done. Next up, the big reveal. Do I measure up to Vernet's image?</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-2241757649148030472015-12-30T19:30:00.000-05:002015-12-30T19:32:24.343-05:00Vernet 1814: The Love Knot<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-K2fVb0X894qIS6iD8DhXwZcPReJ5fpa8O_7KILp9ymgdZCzqxF7-A3VA-448999DMr6s5SMx7PO0i8m2zXi9AFabBCdnPkC4-v4DdIypjirjSxeD8FI5MU0NljQ2efFdtVzlYKUzJcs/s1600/Vernet.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-K2fVb0X894qIS6iD8DhXwZcPReJ5fpa8O_7KILp9ymgdZCzqxF7-A3VA-448999DMr6s5SMx7PO0i8m2zXi9AFabBCdnPkC4-v4DdIypjirjSxeD8FI5MU0NljQ2efFdtVzlYKUzJcs/s320/Vernet.jpg" width="319" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCCbyXXZ2zqR8pqXxHjQRfzgcIw9YiQy6V49-X5MobNyr6I5UjeTSUit6EvXo33wMf7Q97dWpx5Ns6EA2WtUhA2IdsJy0x4A0SjdhAwWAI-XjvrZZUJ-2sQQezaozp4Fa3Y908VDYpgTQ/s1600/1913997_10153388790623107_9070089296468868629_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCCbyXXZ2zqR8pqXxHjQRfzgcIw9YiQy6V49-X5MobNyr6I5UjeTSUit6EvXo33wMf7Q97dWpx5Ns6EA2WtUhA2IdsJy0x4A0SjdhAwWAI-XjvrZZUJ-2sQQezaozp4Fa3Y908VDYpgTQ/s400/1913997_10153388790623107_9070089296468868629_n.jpg" width="220" /></a></div>
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I'm officially calling this the "what is that thing around her neck" post. </div>
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Vernet apparently couldn't be bothered when it came to detailing the jewelry around his model's neck. To me, when I first glanced at the figure, it looked like she was either wearing a large pretzel, or a dollar sign. Since she isn't a white, rapping, 1990's gangster wanna-be, I quickly ruled out the dollar sign. But a pretzel...surely there was something more rational. What looks like a pretzel from a distance, but would have been aesthetically pleasing to the fashion world of the Regency era...classical jewelry....snakes? Yes, snakes were a trend...but more importantly, what did their twisting, knotted, eternal bodies represent? </div>
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The hive minds of the Vernet participants led to the conclusion of the "love knot." The love knot is an image repeatedly used in art and fashion for thousands of years. From the Celts, the Romans, the Georgians, the Victorians, the Edwardians, and on into the late 20th century...the love knot is there...as present as what it symbolizes, it is eternal. </div>
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So I went on a hunt for images of Georgian era love knot jewelry. It wasn't too hard to locate a few that still exist.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjjsNPkxgyoRYXYWbRNQAHfrHZYWy7Eof_7pt3YLuYMcvsu4f8knzzzrxAj3NpWfdJPN90ElP8_g3mLZBV73YEpKKfGqO93zpSAqEiVunVtwuXCT8KtagpsYCTJerNGNubK2-2umv9qLU/s1600/OVUU1LNWXnuxkqiLoMk7pQ-small.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjjsNPkxgyoRYXYWbRNQAHfrHZYWy7Eof_7pt3YLuYMcvsu4f8knzzzrxAj3NpWfdJPN90ElP8_g3mLZBV73YEpKKfGqO93zpSAqEiVunVtwuXCT8KtagpsYCTJerNGNubK2-2umv9qLU/s320/OVUU1LNWXnuxkqiLoMk7pQ-small.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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First up, a <a href="http://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/121125-georgian-doves-and-love-knot-le-plus-lo">Georgian wax seal fob</a> that features a love knot. See it there, between the dove?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirrwv4vqgfiWrg_av1cW0XubachrEJytK3zMuc4L6hW_DUa_-d2_-LDJLwezbcKtdXw1z78QICs1pttnQULP7ba1N3rbyzhcUqEONGywac3cv6vce6ySAVLu55FY_5qjw0vPmA941ylW8/s1600/13f57c469abac13443b5ac518082b30e.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirrwv4vqgfiWrg_av1cW0XubachrEJytK3zMuc4L6hW_DUa_-d2_-LDJLwezbcKtdXw1z78QICs1pttnQULP7ba1N3rbyzhcUqEONGywac3cv6vce6ySAVLu55FY_5qjw0vPmA941ylW8/s320/13f57c469abac13443b5ac518082b30e.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next, a Georgian, serpentine love knot for mourning, made out of braided hair. </div>
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(Sorry, the auction no longer exists, so no source.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0C28_P8KK0cnFpIAAM9gKIbkxt4LqfcCdOCRyEs-Jzdt5_NNRXkpFGrlnG7jQR9Ka2Qb6TyszhEqn0U9ullw4WrCW0q6xAe8k30DowBlb2v5JfKTFRnapQLXP1_JIMX2COMEF7fBh5s/s1600/9ca74f1283daa8d9f1a16ed01fbf4dd7.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0C28_P8KK0cnFpIAAM9gKIbkxt4LqfcCdOCRyEs-Jzdt5_NNRXkpFGrlnG7jQR9Ka2Qb6TyszhEqn0U9ullw4WrCW0q6xAe8k30DowBlb2v5JfKTFRnapQLXP1_JIMX2COMEF7fBh5s/s320/9ca74f1283daa8d9f1a16ed01fbf4dd7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's a link to a <a href="http://www.rubylane.com/item/1307885-213892385/Antique-Georgian-Regency-15k-Yellow-Gold">Georgian snake pin</a> that has been altered into a necklace.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT1QaMYgqrLKgb7vM5L7Mk3Ifibv481YnDMuJpq7qweMF72BiFFXDMrLcBjYnFOnobuTLqMmsvZTcm5QszlQecjVxxCfAZDNsIDqBxIY4IrYtOA-LmELUpHfdvucpWAqUSzGsAGHppWhI/s1600/5a650de76cf2b72ce8306ffe28995e28.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT1QaMYgqrLKgb7vM5L7Mk3Ifibv481YnDMuJpq7qweMF72BiFFXDMrLcBjYnFOnobuTLqMmsvZTcm5QszlQecjVxxCfAZDNsIDqBxIY4IrYtOA-LmELUpHfdvucpWAqUSzGsAGHppWhI/s320/5a650de76cf2b72ce8306ffe28995e28.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And another Georgian love knot pin that no longer is up for auction (so no link). This one is a knot, but isn't in the form of a serpent. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm951kPUC2QwK6l9faskRsx4RvTuSFeAZrHScADfpur8hGrlWiHjJT-H7siOSyn0xZnnZtv7JKPIfASuRsQyyeeDQoRYBun898fM-j_6UXBaXhH_jaiwF4ArcwuM3MEzTZFMesE3-2xEM/s1600/Georgian_Foiled_Stone_Brooch.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm951kPUC2QwK6l9faskRsx4RvTuSFeAZrHScADfpur8hGrlWiHjJT-H7siOSyn0xZnnZtv7JKPIfASuRsQyyeeDQoRYBun898fM-j_6UXBaXhH_jaiwF4ArcwuM3MEzTZFMesE3-2xEM/s320/Georgian_Foiled_Stone_Brooch.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://university.langantiques.com/index.php/Georgian_Jewelry:_1714-1837">This Georgian love knot</a> is actually quite similar in shape to the one I ended up buying for my outfit.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrHkRbjDoiwbAuqBUvmPCpZQ5MSCWR_24a4Ho2R177E0_tdOqjYthTakWKdXPa45WD3K5it7Wpz1z1oRrpYkQ5dlgrCDrF93koJuxvgB3W8L8x0PXMZCBDDkyqMN4f7p79OR82KqMCo08/s1600/61829c70a04b495fdbd7c286a33676c3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrHkRbjDoiwbAuqBUvmPCpZQ5MSCWR_24a4Ho2R177E0_tdOqjYthTakWKdXPa45WD3K5it7Wpz1z1oRrpYkQ5dlgrCDrF93koJuxvgB3W8L8x0PXMZCBDDkyqMN4f7p79OR82KqMCo08/s320/61829c70a04b495fdbd7c286a33676c3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And finally, <a href="http://www.rubylane.com/item/872660-RL1034/Antique-Georgian-18k-Gold-Amethyst-Chrysoberyl">the Georgian love knot </a> that I think most closely resembles the one that Vernet was attempting to draw on his model.</div>
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To show you that the love knot continues to be a popular choice of jewelry on up until our currant age, here are a few more to feast your eyes on...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnhX6TNbI4qI7QIAiJIlDvHuNQZAxQEMytOVHRxu8bVUjQz_zfnwdbcd2FOkUWNWeIdg4m7xVPH6lMDVRzr331ucfT7mm_S8wRWlpJ2rsgXvz3svrMA-Vt2dmh8j-v9KkiAMqqnmIax1M/s1600/1314834030_50_1_2825__2_of_3_.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnhX6TNbI4qI7QIAiJIlDvHuNQZAxQEMytOVHRxu8bVUjQz_zfnwdbcd2FOkUWNWeIdg4m7xVPH6lMDVRzr331ucfT7mm_S8wRWlpJ2rsgXvz3svrMA-Vt2dmh8j-v9KkiAMqqnmIax1M/s320/1314834030_50_1_2825__2_of_3_.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.langantiques.com/early-victorian-amethyst-lovers-knot-brooch.html">early Victorian, c.1850.</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD8X85wGNQ8GUMcSjNQ3xqqi1fxRH_bSd9GYEMERLl-pXlmBRxa-UZp8C1Y8BNB526kILeCrJogdJXey2cft2Nb_4J-ugmNnSjC7pCnGx6Bo-m_hDl1UbeSshPkNjfkqdJWZ9_hmMTppE/s1600/il_570xN.756326052_1ljv.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD8X85wGNQ8GUMcSjNQ3xqqi1fxRH_bSd9GYEMERLl-pXlmBRxa-UZp8C1Y8BNB526kILeCrJogdJXey2cft2Nb_4J-ugmNnSjC7pCnGx6Bo-m_hDl1UbeSshPkNjfkqdJWZ9_hmMTppE/s320/il_570xN.756326052_1ljv.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/229673984/antique-victorian-love-knot-brooch?ref=market">late Victorian, c.1870.</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj78tli_QTz7NIiVxj3-i5RP5BFB2u22Q5MT4kudBs0SlDZ3NGNdKnMLDD3kUvwEKO7GQdMNLaUMSOpOlpIJGnL4Zdt2S0CbAtg7JzFRKpxnVF0VlYmFbg6bPfzvFa47yZu0QyQcV1QweE/s1600/afe788edf30a0242be00bc31adba79bc.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj78tli_QTz7NIiVxj3-i5RP5BFB2u22Q5MT4kudBs0SlDZ3NGNdKnMLDD3kUvwEKO7GQdMNLaUMSOpOlpIJGnL4Zdt2S0CbAtg7JzFRKpxnVF0VlYmFbg6bPfzvFa47yZu0QyQcV1QweE/s400/afe788edf30a0242be00bc31adba79bc.jpg" /></a></div>
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late Edwardian.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNz3uSZcbI7vBkDU15NPVl9M2fFNWaDUAhcgCqmUoE5AKgamsEuF3vTLMmod9Pj7gtiAr3QQyZ_t8v24FgNxQ3d46UBOxbu8hR1RazFOTkBa7uk0MKjjqXEK-hbhGX2jO0Y-CcV4NC-Sg/s1600/996761_10153389144748107_1219673696493850011_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNz3uSZcbI7vBkDU15NPVl9M2fFNWaDUAhcgCqmUoE5AKgamsEuF3vTLMmod9Pj7gtiAr3QQyZ_t8v24FgNxQ3d46UBOxbu8hR1RazFOTkBa7uk0MKjjqXEK-hbhGX2jO0Y-CcV4NC-Sg/s320/996761_10153389144748107_1219673696493850011_n.jpg" width="176" /></a></div>
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My broach, c.1950's</div>
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(Obviously, I wasn't able to afford a genuine Georgian love knot. I got mine for $1.50 on Ebay.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0jkx0m0uRKWoYnyLMnNLLvSD55hRuXBAnQlbAXBtPapWNZ5SWfOw1tUYQ43W8Au-dWD_NbLE4naG_6NW6_rjC0aJpycScodLGCO_UR3Tn3CyC5sOdRmFiLErzsi1umhV5_1DkZnQToC4/s1600/ee4c33c5dd82bd657b61a9f0a13cac8d.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0jkx0m0uRKWoYnyLMnNLLvSD55hRuXBAnQlbAXBtPapWNZ5SWfOw1tUYQ43W8Au-dWD_NbLE4naG_6NW6_rjC0aJpycScodLGCO_UR3Tn3CyC5sOdRmFiLErzsi1umhV5_1DkZnQToC4/s320/ee4c33c5dd82bd657b61a9f0a13cac8d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.beladora.com/store/502942_tiffany_co_sapphire_and_diamond_brooch_in_18k">1975, Tiffany and Co.</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9hqUosKSzpyJJhqiuIm9fd0xKSNfFDwlpl4WzSX_9BYG9kWdsesaokA9KYY9xqBMETeYU1Z3-DQQD7buP9y-FryuNx1MSBI6fOG56pdzYoMWeBVhD4EzjW7K3v5ubu1N8j10Q3GmZIk/s1600/s-l300.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9hqUosKSzpyJJhqiuIm9fd0xKSNfFDwlpl4WzSX_9BYG9kWdsesaokA9KYY9xqBMETeYU1Z3-DQQD7buP9y-FryuNx1MSBI6fOG56pdzYoMWeBVhD4EzjW7K3v5ubu1N8j10Q3GmZIk/s400/s-l300.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/10k-Yellow-Gold-Love-Knot-Pendant-With-16-Inch-Chain-/161816405132?hash=item25ad02648c:g:2nEAAOSwT6pV7Qr2">a contemporary love knot</a> </div>
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(Not so attractive, in my opinion.)</div>
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So, mystery solved...a love knot, it is then. I wonder who it was that she loved?</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-52677582490973908762015-12-29T16:41:00.002-05:002015-12-29T20:24:12.395-05:00Vernet 1814: The Dress, Part 2<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9b0ooe2LRa_3n1tpGEDLT-tBkjA1izDVcq_GhX7T-8XitQexrFL3zMjCnoKwoMUE9AVBI0-i7aiSSs3HxRHfKkhWq4i7JXbqtz4BiBQzIzWSr5XtDvgIpV_1dAfo-4eJSAtsT1bykEFg/s1600/Vernet.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9b0ooe2LRa_3n1tpGEDLT-tBkjA1izDVcq_GhX7T-8XitQexrFL3zMjCnoKwoMUE9AVBI0-i7aiSSs3HxRHfKkhWq4i7JXbqtz4BiBQzIzWSr5XtDvgIpV_1dAfo-4eJSAtsT1bykEFg/s400/Vernet.jpg" width="398" /></a></div>
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The end of the year is here, and if you haven't been following the Vernet project thus far, now's the time to do so. Hop on over to the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/vernet1814/?fref=ts">Vernet Facebook community page</a> to see how everyone's outfits are turning out. </div>
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My outfit is finished, and has been presented on the Facebook page, but I have been overwhelmingly busy this holiday season. I apologize for leaving you in the lurch. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjekLWnnFfV8QYUtHS3FDWfDEx6f8xBl3vWa1PqI00CvFq6AoNmRZ5uy7XbeXcYkj9354OckTsaQJDIGFD8XtIg5QGc2zv9Dj7Wu-QxH7BVFyQVPH3KpKTm1nBT1KeIHAGuYFftUB0s2VE/s1600/988799_10153388790813107_3191677499279155900_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjekLWnnFfV8QYUtHS3FDWfDEx6f8xBl3vWa1PqI00CvFq6AoNmRZ5uy7XbeXcYkj9354OckTsaQJDIGFD8XtIg5QGc2zv9Dj7Wu-QxH7BVFyQVPH3KpKTm1nBT1KeIHAGuYFftUB0s2VE/s400/988799_10153388790813107_3191677499279155900_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you scrutinize my Vernet fashion plate with an intense magnifying glass (wink,) you will notice that five layers of ruffles at the bottom of the gown are actually 10 layers. Each row features a double layer of slightly gathered fabric, with the top layer being semi-sheer and ending about a 1/2 inch above the under layer. I chose to use some cotton voile that I had in my stash for the semi-sheer ruffles. My dress being made of Perkale, a fabric that is absolutely NOT sheer, I wondered if there were other examples of garments made with two different kinds of fabric. Thanks to Katherine of <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/">The Fashionable Past</a> (who is also a participant in the Vernet project,) I am able to show you an example of such a garment. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIoXSb0R_MXZuztZvLvtslO-pyeYGKiLoP0-Z-koO9BUI-CrbR82jAyOfKYMTUNMM35Mi4hxNo5BHQ6gFvzNL3NgYxm8SmxF-Jz6tBAlJ5905biCbvkKRQnYJ2B2yu9mUonRixO7vLo4E/s1600/1990.225_B.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIoXSb0R_MXZuztZvLvtslO-pyeYGKiLoP0-Z-koO9BUI-CrbR82jAyOfKYMTUNMM35Mi4hxNo5BHQ6gFvzNL3NgYxm8SmxF-Jz6tBAlJ5905biCbvkKRQnYJ2B2yu9mUonRixO7vLo4E/s400/1990.225_B.jpg" width="340" /></a></div>
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Take a closer look at this <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/103990?img=0">pelisse from the MET</a> and you will notice the ruffled hem, cuffs, and collar are of a semi-sheer material, while the rest of the pelisse is made of a dense cotton that is most likely Perkale.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidS5eT6G-ObsaTaGd_2XMe7L5agEPiWAZiFDQb1WMaUrot88i9sqKMJuPcfYAmJlEqA03qmu6zrYb3zAEOzvRS8SYY0SrmbQyVpQ4eMv9kBnrhsH6dlyIPvk5j976tCjVQMeTFENn8PeE/s1600/10376044_10153388789708107_2254717743924209629_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidS5eT6G-ObsaTaGd_2XMe7L5agEPiWAZiFDQb1WMaUrot88i9sqKMJuPcfYAmJlEqA03qmu6zrYb3zAEOzvRS8SYY0SrmbQyVpQ4eMv9kBnrhsH6dlyIPvk5j976tCjVQMeTFENn8PeE/s400/10376044_10153388789708107_2254717743924209629_n.jpg" width="220" /></a></div>
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Hemming and gathering ten layers of ruffles was not something I enjoyed, and I was hard pressed to want to finish this dress because of the ruffles. I am not a frills kind of girl, and I can guarantee you that after I give this outfit one good wear, most of the ruffles will be taken off. It's hard to want to keep going on something that you don't like. But, Vernet was calling to me, and with his wacky spirit as my guide, I finished the dress.</div>
Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-40267488546810422992015-09-12T19:52:00.001-04:002015-09-12T19:52:03.215-04:00Vernet 1814: The Dress, part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhIN4epkA4mAb9tnjZrN2dKhyphenhyphen5jODebPm5r4_4NcLBVt-sIZWM8gJEGdrhaJhafSJioVYl0vbS6Bl3n65cYWCUNhUarKiKDw4IJI3qGwQTe0Rq4C9gGPHv6GpPOyg8NH7aF289EeD_XCQ/s1600/Vernet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhIN4epkA4mAb9tnjZrN2dKhyphenhyphen5jODebPm5r4_4NcLBVt-sIZWM8gJEGdrhaJhafSJioVYl0vbS6Bl3n65cYWCUNhUarKiKDw4IJI3qGwQTe0Rq4C9gGPHv6GpPOyg8NH7aF289EeD_XCQ/s400/Vernet.jpg" width="398" /></a></div>
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The top of my Vernet dress is hidden by (I'll just go ahead and say it since you've probably already figured it out...) a spencer. I've already said in a <a href="http://livingwithjane.blogspot.com/2015/06/vernet-1814-ruff-and-chemisette-side.html">previous post</a> that I was going to make the top of the gown simple and cover it with a chemisette. With the chemisette made, the time came to actually make the top of the dress. </div>
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My gown is described as a "Robe de Perkale." Perkale cotton is a bit hard to find new, but if you are a sleuth on ebay, there are some good vintage sheet finds out there. I decided to go with new Pimatex cotton instead. It is a similar type of cotton, dense and with a slight sheen to it. It's a nightmare to hand sew, by the way. One painful stitch at a time, and you develop calloused fingers by the end.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7VCowzpFI_9OI06s5j8zkc4FQRpfTlFPSC_08e5oA5QMa4fGVQc6_Y8NRKzjQf4rQAfQVbC7lV3b-W1YEqc5yRYubleHh3F0W21-YCjEi_dHp9NngQ0jq-qPEGGP0Ctg-SPEF8fSKjc/s1600/20150626_123611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7VCowzpFI_9OI06s5j8zkc4FQRpfTlFPSC_08e5oA5QMa4fGVQc6_Y8NRKzjQf4rQAfQVbC7lV3b-W1YEqc5yRYubleHh3F0W21-YCjEi_dHp9NngQ0jq-qPEGGP0Ctg-SPEF8fSKjc/s400/20150626_123611.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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So, it turns out that I decided a bit hastily that I wanted my gown to be a gathered drop front gown. Haste makes waste they say, and they're right.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoJVZIxF7nmldWSbgU7ly9VeayHcJ4ioTM4uMKQcGfq2scESNoEjCWrZE1WxjKUzi81wDp2sVUVZzuUCSI7tANFjzPLySfc5hbzUEJT1VdQsNS-wtkcxNSvTP0WWp8DsoVL6jhkDRCyAw/s1600/20150626_123336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoJVZIxF7nmldWSbgU7ly9VeayHcJ4ioTM4uMKQcGfq2scESNoEjCWrZE1WxjKUzi81wDp2sVUVZzuUCSI7tANFjzPLySfc5hbzUEJT1VdQsNS-wtkcxNSvTP0WWp8DsoVL6jhkDRCyAw/s400/20150626_123336.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I say hasty, because I failed to notice a tiny detail on the fashion plate that was a HUGE clue to what style of gown was hidden under the spencer. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mFGnjN1NfU_qB94u4cfOelemfExBginbCq692my7zCheoLAJshTfP3N1zXz-yF18O3QehBvon_IGV3kZ8iC_3e5OdrHikWZEjOsvZQMR3EGAmdITyrEyrFfqSS-GAm6oM-aa5uwuSbk/s1600/new+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mFGnjN1NfU_qB94u4cfOelemfExBginbCq692my7zCheoLAJshTfP3N1zXz-yF18O3QehBvon_IGV3kZ8iC_3e5OdrHikWZEjOsvZQMR3EGAmdITyrEyrFfqSS-GAm6oM-aa5uwuSbk/s400/new+view.jpg" width="285" /></a></div>
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When I reveal my fashion plate at the end, you will notice a small vertical slit down the center front of the gown, just under the spencer. (similar to what you see above) This slit is the clue...it says that the gown had a center front opening. So, back to the drawing board I went, seam ripper in hand, and I designed a new, more simple gown bodice.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYE76KONvtf7D-SLntJhUEV6ccfV35Mdc03DHGp9v7qCB2B8nKTW2MbIJ0BRS1BrzxKLfWEJiP_o1NHuv25w2MY_p1RVftJj7ECk1qpeQI_FvPc9jGR4OOACkeiXz7GL4OPBrUhdSJV_o/s1600/new+view2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="365" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYE76KONvtf7D-SLntJhUEV6ccfV35Mdc03DHGp9v7qCB2B8nKTW2MbIJ0BRS1BrzxKLfWEJiP_o1NHuv25w2MY_p1RVftJj7ECk1qpeQI_FvPc9jGR4OOACkeiXz7GL4OPBrUhdSJV_o/s400/new+view2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's terrifyingly simple...almost boring...but I'm ok with that, because there's enough gaudiness in other aspects of the outfit to make up for it. I wanted the gown to be sleeveless for two reasons: 1. It's cooler to wear. 2. Less bulk under a tight fitting spener. After-all, a bare arm would be enticingly scandalous to a Merveilleuse.</div>
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Now, back I go to the never ending story of hemming and trim making.</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-14541811868439976632015-09-05T13:23:00.000-04:002015-09-05T13:23:18.982-04:00Vernet 1814: Trimmings<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6wnLD7SbX960osOBV59hmZ5cNfhzefLrdXo9ep08yboCzqfTH6oGLidgh7ZUMGIl4Pl7THB1AJ5jALZH5y2f0p6IqttHFblKZw2uGZeYe_wRygYHsMa_4Jjs0JSrpVVfJWY1Jtjj246o/s1600/Vernet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6wnLD7SbX960osOBV59hmZ5cNfhzefLrdXo9ep08yboCzqfTH6oGLidgh7ZUMGIl4Pl7THB1AJ5jALZH5y2f0p6IqttHFblKZw2uGZeYe_wRygYHsMa_4Jjs0JSrpVVfJWY1Jtjj246o/s400/Vernet.jpg" width="398" /></a></div>
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With school starting back up, I've barely had time to breath. So, one way I've tried to keep on top of this Vernet project is to squeeze in the little things during lunch break, or while winding down and watching a show before bed. I'm calling this the "hum-drums" of this sewing project. With repetitive motion and mind numbing sameness, I'm trying not to fall asleep before it's all over, and I'll attempt to not put you to sleep with this post.</div>
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Hum-drum #1...roll hemming 1,040 inches (approximately 87 feet) of cotton for the gown trimmings.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZEJah8O8tNC9PIP2xyISW_L46WCQGPTEI_02Ep86NeTigKD9tnlPCtVSFyJBPm1ziLH4AtIdfi-THaZcYs4PotSjHYoJ3ArPbgHKOILTP7hUYXvKW7_RMfXSL3TwsR99PZ39Mv90ZmXs/s1600/20150820_125448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZEJah8O8tNC9PIP2xyISW_L46WCQGPTEI_02Ep86NeTigKD9tnlPCtVSFyJBPm1ziLH4AtIdfi-THaZcYs4PotSjHYoJ3ArPbgHKOILTP7hUYXvKW7_RMfXSL3TwsR99PZ39Mv90ZmXs/s400/20150820_125448.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Hum-drum #2...weaving 90 yards of <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 22px;">Au Ver A Soie Co. </span>silk chenille thread (from <a href="http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/FBRSCH.php">Hedgehog Handworks</a> - Joady is a saint to work with, by the way.) *Chenille means caterpillar in French! Isn't that cute!* </div>
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Why weaving, you say? Well, instead of buying ready made fringe like any sane person would, I'm following in the footsteps of the French Frangiers, or "fringe makers," and making my own. </div>
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I actually love weaving, so it's not really too bad...not as bad as the roll hemming at least...there's just a lot of it to do. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPTV0sVR7sioCWx6Rd4qDbRpBuB3DvDEigsYwApFTSfq2aiXyI8FZP_6_bbtv5ydteej7xieP-mCkunzieNhq58MfceW76VKAiP-nrzj3oB7haggDhWOCyefQPg9LzhAUfNI_jeoZf04/s1600/20150827_150642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPTV0sVR7sioCWx6Rd4qDbRpBuB3DvDEigsYwApFTSfq2aiXyI8FZP_6_bbtv5ydteej7xieP-mCkunzieNhq58MfceW76VKAiP-nrzj3oB7haggDhWOCyefQPg9LzhAUfNI_jeoZf04/s400/20150827_150642.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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Create a narrow warp, and weave the weft to your desired length. Then, back stitch up one vertical side between the outer two warp threads just to hold the chenille in place.</div>
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Cut lose the outer two (or three is what I did) warp threads on the side that you back stitched, and knot them tightly and close to each end of the weft threads.</div>
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Then release the remaining warp threads on both ends of the loom.</div>
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Set it down with the back stitched edge to the top (this picture is upside down unfortunately), and dab fray-check along the bottom edge of the chenille thread. Let the fray-check dry.</div>
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Once dry, remove the untied warp threads (the ones you knotted at the top are still there.)</div>
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Then carefully cut open each loop of thread along the bottom where the fray-check is.</div>
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Straighten your fringe, and it's ready to be attached where ever you need it.</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-62739672566321821482015-07-22T17:07:00.000-04:002015-07-22T19:54:09.171-04:00Vernet 1814: Hat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrQZ0LUt7wd-x43z0TmknFzFL0BYVeMWibqSvwPFblSkLHcmujjurFXVknk3UneqbDozcG6TgcEFpNIcPwYu90FekyVhr8WXga9BvF9ZoECsOutQtZ9YsxBuyGN-E2qZLsIiFNCv5egvA/s1600/Vernet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrQZ0LUt7wd-x43z0TmknFzFL0BYVeMWibqSvwPFblSkLHcmujjurFXVknk3UneqbDozcG6TgcEFpNIcPwYu90FekyVhr8WXga9BvF9ZoECsOutQtZ9YsxBuyGN-E2qZLsIiFNCv5egvA/s400/Vernet.jpg" width="398" /></a></div>
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The next piece of the puzzle might just give it all away. It was bound to happen sooner or later, I suppose. Let's take a look at my Vernet fashion plate hat, beginning with some fashion plate inspiration (Vernet not included, of course.)</div>
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The shape of the Vernet hat could have been interpreted two ways. The body of the hat could have either been dome shaped, or circular with a flat ramp on the the top. After much trial and error, and a strong desire to give up, I decided on the flat, ramp-like shape. Both shapes can be found in contemporary fashion plates. See below:</div>
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<a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/15/14/83/15148303f47a90250a9e80a4ab50f357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/15/14/83/15148303f47a90250a9e80a4ab50f357.jpg" width="246" /></a></div>
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1811 <i>Costume Parisiens</i></div>
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Dome-shaped- Center column, row 1 and 2. Right column, row 2</div>
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Flat top- Left column, row 1 and 3. Center column, row 3. Right column, row 1 and 4.</div>
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<a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/a6/3c/16/a63c162f32317db401798aa96c3a09f6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/a6/3c/16/a63c162f32317db401798aa96c3a09f6.jpg" width="246" /></a></div>
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1811 <i>Costume Parisiens</i></div>
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Dome-shaped- Left column, row 3. Center column, row 1, 2, and 4. Right column, row 1 and 4.</div>
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Flat top- Left column, row 2. Center column, row 3 and 5. Right column, row 2.</div>
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<a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/01/90/e9/0190e9c724dafdac29d8783d8417d257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/01/90/e9/0190e9c724dafdac29d8783d8417d257.jpg" width="248" /></a></div>
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1813 <i>Costume Parisiens</i></div>
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Dome-shaped- Left column, row 1. Center column, row 2. Right column, row 1, 2 and 3.</div>
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Flat top- Left column, row 2. </div>
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Also...because of the ostrich feathers, the hat in the Left column, row 3 could either be domed or flat! This small, uncertain hat, was a huge inspiration for the shape of my Chapeau de Levantine (Silk satin hat) with ostrich feathers! </div>
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Please forgive me if my description is not perfect...a milliner I am not. I have done my very best to be historically accurate with the shape, material, and construction of the hat. I found myself many times during this process wishing that this was a gown, or chemise, or reticule, or glove, or anything other than a hat. I'll never say never, but I do hope that this is the last hat I make.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeNBpqootM6KhP3X4SrUxjm6U_-RluY-KNh2OeRc48Syjfk_yKcid2u7lBM7qm3a1pzWPIhPbT1X6QosJ5HYzVIPKQD5_8WhM6tZmdk3bqJKNcdCcvtbwqUvXUGcSWTUGsG40KQeERKZ0/s1600/20150525_115428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeNBpqootM6KhP3X4SrUxjm6U_-RluY-KNh2OeRc48Syjfk_yKcid2u7lBM7qm3a1pzWPIhPbT1X6QosJ5HYzVIPKQD5_8WhM6tZmdk3bqJKNcdCcvtbwqUvXUGcSWTUGsG40KQeERKZ0/s400/20150525_115428.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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I started by making a small, doll-sized, paper hat. This helped me to understand the scale and construction of the different pattern pieces I would be using to make the hat. The tabs are important for holding together the individual pieces that make up the whole. The same tab technique was used on the real hat.</div>
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The brim and the side of the side of the crown of the hat were made of buckram, and the flat top was made of a light-weight cardboard. The tabs from the brim and the flat top, fit inside of the crown. It is not shown, but I stitched a wire around the outside edge of the brim, and along the top edge of the crown, in order to hold the shape of the hat. Each pieces was individually covered with silk before assembling the whole hat. The secret to getting the silk to be smooth is glue...use a glue stick on the buckram/cardboard, and then lay the silk on carefully.<br />
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Salmon pink silk-satin was used for the exterior of the crown, and for both sides of the brim. Pink linen was used for the lining. After each piece was covered with the silk-satin, I attached the pieces together with a hidden stitch. The lining was put in last. The brim turned out a little flimsy, and if I were to do it over again (which I won't) I would use a hardier, more stiff buckram for this part.<br />
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I gently curled each feather using the back of my scissors, and I made a base out of a wire coat hanger and some of the left over silk-satin. Then, I stitched each feather onto the base. The base is can be shaped to allow the feathers to fall forward over the crown of the hat. It is also easily tacked onto the back of the hat for removal later on, if I decide to change the decorations on my hat.<br />
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Silk ribbon was added as trim, and a chin strap was sewn on one side, which closes with two hooks and eyes on the other.<br />
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Feathers were attached, and the hat was done!<br />
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If there ever was such a thing as a labor of love, this <i>Chapeau de Levantine </i>is it. I don't even like myself in hats...but I love the Vernet project! So, there you have it! C'est fini!<br />
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-29115075919737108092015-06-15T11:45:00.001-04:002015-06-15T11:45:19.307-04:00Vernet 1814: Ruff and Chemisette - Side Trip...Sort Of<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Another hint about my Vernet fashion plate... the top of my gown is covered by...something. So, and here's the fun part, I get to imagine what it would look like without that something!!!</div>
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I've actually decided to make the top of my gown very simple to make it more versatile later on, and I'll get more into that in a later post. But I am going to decorate the gown by covering it with a gauzy, frilly chemisette (or in this case it can also be called a canezou.) </div>
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When looking through some fashion plates I found this one from the 1811 edition of Costume Parisian, and fell in love with the shoulder ruffles. It will compliment the hem line of my Vernet gown. *wink*wink*</div>
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I recently went on a vacation with my daughter and parents to the beach. The long road trip, in which I didn't have to drive, proved itself the perfect opportunity to sew what seemed like miles of rolled hems, pleats and gathers. I used a soft cotton voile fabric, and it feels like air on your skin.</div>
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I left off the ruffle at the waistline simply because I didn't want to add extra bulk to the outfit. It's light, airy, frilly...like whipped cream on top of a cake...very Vernet. It can be worn with many different dresses, but I think it will work perfectly with the Vernet outfit</div>
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So that was the "side trip...sort of" part of this post. This next part is an accessory that you will actually see a bit of in my Vernet fashion plate...the neck ruff!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4JKBga0WLopQCiPFcmvCz4dNJ_Zxob8FKwS52wXVxP6IGS610IBOe3yRu8LiHbp_cb9GnigoAoC8G5l-8AsD5EEprWTxwuiUKsDMtbigkNuDQslyzmuor7_fvzmAD2HLeL2kmGbbVkE/s1600/39b71ed85be12353ca2eb6e1e25bbc83.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4JKBga0WLopQCiPFcmvCz4dNJ_Zxob8FKwS52wXVxP6IGS610IBOe3yRu8LiHbp_cb9GnigoAoC8G5l-8AsD5EEprWTxwuiUKsDMtbigkNuDQslyzmuor7_fvzmAD2HLeL2kmGbbVkE/s400/39b71ed85be12353ca2eb6e1e25bbc83.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Check out this fashionable beauty from 1808 and her collar! Definitely my neck ruff inspirational goddess!!</div>
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I used a heavily starched cotton organdy for the ruff. Pleating it with my fingers was all it took. No iron needed. </div>
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I started by it folding according style into three long sections, and then I attached each section with a simple stitch...it isn't noticed when all is done.</div>
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Scrunched up, it really holds the folds. I laid it out on a template I had cut previously, to make sure I got the shape and length I wanted. I ended up trimming it down a couple of times to get the right height at various places in the collar.</div>
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Once the shape was figured out, I whip-stitched it onto a small band of fabric. This serves two purposes, it holds the shape together, but I have very sensitive skin and it also prevents the scratchy organdy from making an itchy mess of my neck.</div>
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Now, all that's left to do is to tack it onto the neckline of my chemisette when I'm ready to wear it! </div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-74915628251721830862015-06-15T09:11:00.000-04:002015-06-15T09:11:07.041-04:00Vernet 1814: Boots - Eye Candy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In case you doubt the thinness of the soles on my Vernet boots, here's proof that the ladies of the day did indeed wear them as such. </div>
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<a href="https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/BK-14867-B">Rijksmuseum c.1815</a></div>
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<a href="http://digitaltmuseum.no/011061625108?count=427&pos=226&to_year=1815&search_context=1&from_year=1815&page=10">Nasjonalmuseet c.1815-1825</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/112679?rpp=60&pg=2&ao=on&ft=shoes&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=105">Met Museum c.1810</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=184672">Powerhouse Museum c.1825</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/pair-of-womens-shoes-326838">Museum of Fine Arts Boston c.1790-1810</a></div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-82276914426128961912015-05-02T17:57:00.000-04:002015-05-02T19:16:18.229-04:00Vernet 1814: Boots - Part 2: A Tutorial<div style="text-align: center;">
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April was a quiet month, but here I am again...this time to show you how I made the soles of my Vernet boots, and how I attached the boot uppers to the soles. If you remember, I made a huge mess with the soles...it looked like I'd been gnawing on the leather with my teeth...so, I consulted a leather expert. There's a place in Lexington, KY called <a href="http://lastgenuineleather.com/">The Last Genuine Leather Company</a>. Out of frustration, I walked in with my boot uppers in one hand, and a copy of <i>Every Lady Her Own Shoemaker</i> in the other, and begged for help. Thankfully, the staff of The <span style="background-color: white;">Last Genuine Leather Company</span> were humble enough to share their skills and expertise with me. Their decades of experience in leather working had made them craftsman of the highest caliber. </div>
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The first thing they did was direct me to the correct tools, and the proper type of leather. The leather is sturdy, but thin and easily pliable. All that was needed was a small bit of cast off scrap leather, which they gave to me free of charge. </div>
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I traced around my shoe last to create the shape needed for the soles, and then used an exacto knife to carefully cut them out. Be sure to use small, shallow strokes when cutting. It will take several trips around the sole to break through the leather. Putting a lot of pressure into it, and trying to get through it in one cut only makes you more prone to mistakes and injury. The rough side of the leather will be on the inside of the boot, and the smooth side will be on the outside. But, when sewing the sole to the upper, everything will be turned inside out...so the rough side will appear to be on the outside of the shoe until you are done and turn the shoe. </div>
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*Blah...I can already tell that this is going to be hard to explain. If I'm not making myself clear, please feel free to ask questions in the comment section.*<br />
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They sold me four tools, all of which were necessary, in my opinion. I'm sure the women in the early 19th century didn't own all of these tools, so props to them for doing this without the aid of these life savers.<br />
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To trim and clean up the edge of your leather sole, I used this hoof shaped tool. Not only does this tool give your shoe a neater appearance, but it also makes it easier for you to insert the awl in a later part of the process.<br />
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The next tool carves a small ditch around the sole. The width from the edge is adjustable, and you pull the tool instead of pushing it. It cuts through the leather like a knife through butter, but I did have to go over it three times to create the depth I wanted. It creates a "U" shaped ditch, instead of the "V" shaped ditch described in <i>Every Lady Her Own Shoemaker, </i>but I'm not splitting hairs over this discrepancy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP-mTDQPPnICjPoKs6btE0_dVQkjOGtyZAgVxDGkBxtaXKwWasobtDDCSCL3JFbq14Jv_BuI5rRnfyqUDHCrF90gjmOwttfunkJSNP8YO-bckt4JiHSg1HRU5ZDANP6EXidxZyUsoC81M/s1600/20150307_134409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP-mTDQPPnICjPoKs6btE0_dVQkjOGtyZAgVxDGkBxtaXKwWasobtDDCSCL3JFbq14Jv_BuI5rRnfyqUDHCrF90gjmOwttfunkJSNP8YO-bckt4JiHSg1HRU5ZDANP6EXidxZyUsoC81M/s1600/20150307_134409.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0nP0hJUupTehX5AOeG8uEuyiHmXpdnGNWj3e8_IvJpm-UX8EY_kiNmZKr2AJhrK24qR9SDb8mGp7exGkAwh89YSzthKUyJNo19EeAcv93WJLEx0CQkMjpq3CXmTcBtcJT5r2nxM6Rm0/s1600/20150303_152243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0nP0hJUupTehX5AOeG8uEuyiHmXpdnGNWj3e8_IvJpm-UX8EY_kiNmZKr2AJhrK24qR9SDb8mGp7exGkAwh89YSzthKUyJNo19EeAcv93WJLEx0CQkMjpq3CXmTcBtcJT5r2nxM6Rm0/s1600/20150303_152243.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a></div>
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The awl that is used to pierce the leather is different from the one I use for sewing fabric. It is a flat, sword-like shape, and dangerously sharp. I hardly had to apply any pressure to get through the leather. To prepare the sole for sewing, I pierced the awl into the beveled side and up out of the "U" shaped ditch. I did this all the way around the sole, making each hole about 1/8th inch or less apart from each other.</div>
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This tool is a combination of awl and needle. It slides easily through holes that are already made, but isn't strong enough to go through the leather if it isn't already pre-punctured. I used this to sew the upper to the sole.<br />
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It's your choice to use either fake sinew or waxed shoemaker's thread...either one will work. I chose a fake sinew. It is, however, too thick to be worked with as it comes, so I split each thread into three pieces once it was cut off of the role. One third of each thread was all I needed to provide a sturdy stitch.<br />
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When you are ready to sew, turn your upper inside and and slide it down onto your shoe last. Place the leather sole (inside out...or rough side out) at the bottom of the last. Everything sort of slides around and is hard to keep in place as you are sewing. The right thing to do would be to nail the leather onto the last, but I just couldn't be bothered with this step. I did use a safety pin to keep the toe of the upper down over the last, as it was the most slippery and tricky part to stay put.</div>
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For reference, these pictures give you a good idea of where your stitches will go. You will be sewing from the ditch through the side of the sole and fabric, and then vice-a-versa. Start from the heel and work your way up one side, ending at or near the toe, then repeat for the other side.</div>
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It is extremely difficult for me to explain in writing HOW to sew the upper to the sole. I'm a very visual person, and would prefer the pictures speak for themselves, but I will try to sum it up in words as best I can. I've drawn a diagram because it can be a bit hard to see where the thread is going in the pictures. Begin by cutting off a long piece of thread, about two feet in length. As you begin sewing, the thread will be folded in half, so really you are working with only a foot of thread, but you will be using both ends simultaneously. </div>
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I found it easiest to re-puncture the leather with the awl three holes at a time, as the leather often closes up on itself after some time...making it harder for the needle to slide through.<br />
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**Begin at the heel, not the side like my picture.**<br />
Pierce the needle through the outer edge of the fabric, through the side of the leather(through a hole), and up out of the ditch.<br />
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Place one end of the thread through the needle.</div>
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Pull the need back out of the fabric, bringing the thread with you.<br />
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Now, even out the thread so that you have equal amounts of it sticking out of both sides...one through the ditch, and one through the side fabric.</div>
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Place the needle back through the fabric and side of leather in the NEXT hole...attach the end of thread on the ditch side...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVhw9GnNrd931bLbmLlbTtRmZGfrdNMJSueOcu0JgrnmTKABTNoNkMXzUB1LShbObQTrCgeT-_Cz9aD3FgcW0Vbpj37Aq0aiN_BINjT4nyVLwZTCHtedoaWvYZ2PZsZWmc5Ni1JsWQx9s/s1600/20150415_100150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVhw9GnNrd931bLbmLlbTtRmZGfrdNMJSueOcu0JgrnmTKABTNoNkMXzUB1LShbObQTrCgeT-_Cz9aD3FgcW0Vbpj37Aq0aiN_BINjT4nyVLwZTCHtedoaWvYZ2PZsZWmc5Ni1JsWQx9s/s1600/20150415_100150.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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...and pull it back through. You should now have both ends of the thread on the outside edge of the fabric.</div>
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This time, put the needle through the same hole, but coming from the DITCH SIDE first through to the fabric side. Place the OTHER thread end...the one that was in the first hole...through the needle and pull it back through.</div>
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If you've done it correctly, you should have switched the two ends of your thread, and there should be loops on either side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpjr5WHvSR1GYA-QzS51lSBDIj3ZoCjx4zG7Lb1WgsHvH6hJT-LNItPTA78pSbsOnj3T6VCZEMO9pT4SMf1f5XUoXSSn1D0DJ6_I-Vug0SZ9fbRYo6WFDxF6k_6OaZkJDcmJ9mXPywSw/s1600/20150415_100346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpjr5WHvSR1GYA-QzS51lSBDIj3ZoCjx4zG7Lb1WgsHvH6hJT-LNItPTA78pSbsOnj3T6VCZEMO9pT4SMf1f5XUoXSSn1D0DJ6_I-Vug0SZ9fbRYo6WFDxF6k_6OaZkJDcmJ9mXPywSw/s1600/20150415_100346.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now, pull the ends of the thread and the loops will disappear...one into the ditch, and the other into the side of the fabric. Repeat this process over and over until you reach the end of the thread or the toe of the shoe...whichever comes first.</div>
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When you reach the end of the thread, bring the outside (fabric side) thread end back through the leather and tie the two ends into a very sturdy knot. The knot will hide down in the ditch.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-DPGQrwthDo5ZGlUbKZeZ6eGCKxIC4Jr7haxxx8fHuVv6_GSOK1psWy8BLoHQNQt0RieThh36yMb2DfMSIJ7nOVF0LBpE2UdkUv2zefe_caGiP_bobVyIyxvq6UEreyFc2IlHsmYl9Zk/s1600/20150415_103900.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-DPGQrwthDo5ZGlUbKZeZ6eGCKxIC4Jr7haxxx8fHuVv6_GSOK1psWy8BLoHQNQt0RieThh36yMb2DfMSIJ7nOVF0LBpE2UdkUv2zefe_caGiP_bobVyIyxvq6UEreyFc2IlHsmYl9Zk/s1600/20150415_103900.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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You can see here a little bit of what the thread looks like when sewn. It really does hide itself well...not to mention this will all be turned right side out later and you will never see it. Make sure to trim the extra string when you finish the shoe.</div>
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Leather side...done.</div>
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Cloth side...done.</div>
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Now it's time to turn the shoe. I've heard so many horror stories about this process, but because my fabric was a soft silk, and because the sole of my boot was so thin and soft, I didn't have any problem with this step.</div>
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Open the shoe, and begin by pulling the heel of the shoe down over the last.</div>
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Remove the last.</div>
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Here's the boot inside out.</div>
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Start with the heel area, and carefully work the fabric down over the heel.</div>
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Bend the leather back at the heel...</div>
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...and slowly work your way down the sole, toward the toe...<br />
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...peeling the fabric down inch by inch...</div>
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...until you reach the toe.</div>
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The ball of the foot was the hardest part for me. Keeping the leather sole fully bent backward made it easier to maneuver.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaIIUleFUV9YnmOW06YE4ai2oFuNJUYE_dZ5-iAXKpNivypMrESG6EcqoqJmQjCepDjlQX8ha-36B4yLTBNUudJkyplC_INL_1PgVGVYgrwuwJBSH-umQEonCYRv87_jf92WrpUvFGJv8/s1600/20150415_105955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaIIUleFUV9YnmOW06YE4ai2oFuNJUYE_dZ5-iAXKpNivypMrESG6EcqoqJmQjCepDjlQX8ha-36B4yLTBNUudJkyplC_INL_1PgVGVYgrwuwJBSH-umQEonCYRv87_jf92WrpUvFGJv8/s1600/20150415_105955.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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And there you have it...smooth side of the sole is out...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEzSAKD9syBYGxe4epV9Cj4vVvpExglLC6NKe-SjsrFgbBwA0wVjd-q8GgZ1JyPTuV7f-63JoSjYFMtuwr010Pi4zAiAZjvN19BQc0qpVP_a6otjlmp3589sJBYvdLdaN3I6Xqu-eIMW8/s1600/20150415_105609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEzSAKD9syBYGxe4epV9Cj4vVvpExglLC6NKe-SjsrFgbBwA0wVjd-q8GgZ1JyPTuV7f-63JoSjYFMtuwr010Pi4zAiAZjvN19BQc0qpVP_a6otjlmp3589sJBYvdLdaN3I6Xqu-eIMW8/s1600/20150415_105609.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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...and shiny silk fabric is out. Boot completed! *ALMOST*</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj2zKuRK6vfLoICcxT9xa6hjQlFANtamTnTZyptjmFXi1G8hMdPTa9qocX_-NDI1sjQDHQTgcfVTt39K1vY2qXDHziFeBhDEQobPYZe-xL2VtfqcSPoAT2Pi7BUZYCmeXFMbXUCQdQRGo/s1600/20150426_174431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj2zKuRK6vfLoICcxT9xa6hjQlFANtamTnTZyptjmFXi1G8hMdPTa9qocX_-NDI1sjQDHQTgcfVTt39K1vY2qXDHziFeBhDEQobPYZe-xL2VtfqcSPoAT2Pi7BUZYCmeXFMbXUCQdQRGo/s1600/20150426_174431.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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Let's not forget the lining for the inside sole (like I did.) Turn your shoes BACK inside out...I know, I know...REALLY!? Trace your shoe last onto a piece of linen or cotton, and cut out one shoe liner for each boot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOX2nLuRxRGkflkGpa9e7D1wpk9ORVblABdXkB0HQEaNp1K_Lxu6lhVt28qSrokPRecZUyHUB55Rqn_0lKl40kfdrOFR7V35N3sFGODh0vA2M3_9BJ2a1QrBmqJZhQ6TjNh2nCTnLfl10/s1600/20150426_175134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOX2nLuRxRGkflkGpa9e7D1wpk9ORVblABdXkB0HQEaNp1K_Lxu6lhVt28qSrokPRecZUyHUB55Rqn_0lKl40kfdrOFR7V35N3sFGODh0vA2M3_9BJ2a1QrBmqJZhQ6TjNh2nCTnLfl10/s1600/20150426_175134.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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Glue down the extra or overlapping upper fabric to the inside sole, then glue the sole lining onto the sole. I just used a common glue stick. It seems to be working very well...but only time will tell if it holds up.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqAT7N66TGIesfTPJzyiX6pD9RrPpvIYmBlrl774thl7FrbXzYxCmC573VYWHI9Y3h5viMbh-2obXRa8tfjG4gxh5Q-5-4I9mgtfVxZ8RGrfI6Csk6erYKTqlHIiiKUkCcQYNlMEoiYM/s1600/20150415_110025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqAT7N66TGIesfTPJzyiX6pD9RrPpvIYmBlrl774thl7FrbXzYxCmC573VYWHI9Y3h5viMbh-2obXRa8tfjG4gxh5Q-5-4I9mgtfVxZ8RGrfI6Csk6erYKTqlHIiiKUkCcQYNlMEoiYM/s1600/20150415_110025.jpg" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
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Now turn your boot BACK to the right side, and voila!!! It's done!! They look floppy now, but they fit like a glove when on my feet. They seem so delicate, I can't imagine any 19th century lady doing much walking or dancing in these. They are definitely a rich person's "throw away" type of shoe...meant to be fashionably worn once or twice and then discarded. In <i>Every Lady Her Own Shoemaker, </i>the boots are made with leather uppers or foxing. I'm certain that those shoes would last a frugal woman a much longer time. Vernet's Merveilleuse were not concerned with frugality. Their cry was "give me frivolous fashion, or give me death!!" </div>
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And no...you can't see them on my feet yet. Patience dear one...winter is coming!</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-876149863701301022015-02-15T11:20:00.000-05:002015-02-15T11:20:17.358-05:00Vernet 1814: Petticoat - Part 2<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6oQBa9Otb7vh8GniS2DAgiWNog13dLs38wYf5Oe-br-5-fOVJlerDd4wYv_JXYa4MEVxEWo2fJzRiJ8CiCRXSelk1xKChyd1xJvOf5CzsCKcvNwZRlabIKme-wnjTsA1urMrpA1Ja72E/s1600/Vernet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6oQBa9Otb7vh8GniS2DAgiWNog13dLs38wYf5Oe-br-5-fOVJlerDd4wYv_JXYa4MEVxEWo2fJzRiJ8CiCRXSelk1xKChyd1xJvOf5CzsCKcvNwZRlabIKme-wnjTsA1urMrpA1Ja72E/s1600/Vernet.jpg" height="320" width="319" /></a></div>
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A dear sweet friend found and bestowed upon me a bit of antique, embroidered trim that perfectly completes my 1814 petticoat. </div>
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Take a look at the original <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/81577">Met Petticoat</a>. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1A9TuZhxAokVWT6SU9xSsG12iM3wmwUa87xNUrleFZSBKoiT43sPqS3kgA1RtdYQ8GIieTS6XIhpAiaCEmmklZH8Tm9VztWoIdBPuT-BzN4EsiON43mPCSe_F-UficbcAAzsjEHnbm1Q/s1600/CI64.26.3_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1A9TuZhxAokVWT6SU9xSsG12iM3wmwUa87xNUrleFZSBKoiT43sPqS3kgA1RtdYQ8GIieTS6XIhpAiaCEmmklZH8Tm9VztWoIdBPuT-BzN4EsiON43mPCSe_F-UficbcAAzsjEHnbm1Q/s1600/CI64.26.3_F.jpg" height="400" width="145" /></a></div>
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And now tell me the new trim hasn't been reincarnated!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlrVNcUzCGlhV_TKIxP_7lpXZ7sI91QZOkUCPawVsDNW7UKrb06-HDXTVaggn5YWRmWIJx1ALMjkaD4f3dPEHHWqOZMhrFYFfJ3LmaUOdafg6zLoFwBg3gUfVne6aGSsGy_2Xx5WTHE3U/s1600/20150211_133843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlrVNcUzCGlhV_TKIxP_7lpXZ7sI91QZOkUCPawVsDNW7UKrb06-HDXTVaggn5YWRmWIJx1ALMjkaD4f3dPEHHWqOZMhrFYFfJ3LmaUOdafg6zLoFwBg3gUfVne6aGSsGy_2Xx5WTHE3U/s1600/20150211_133843.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKeZLmHIbfjg4PHldgDqgj29oJPcYaoFFSVHLAfRJFVKUyZ1QpPSTd9qhdar2ItASztkn54CUXGFsM2mWBBdjZUDQwdpRpMseXzsWN-MoEYOCf7T0xrEycIiH1i5WZcuAoiK6H6c3qNt0/s1600/20150211_133855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKeZLmHIbfjg4PHldgDqgj29oJPcYaoFFSVHLAfRJFVKUyZ1QpPSTd9qhdar2ItASztkn54CUXGFsM2mWBBdjZUDQwdpRpMseXzsWN-MoEYOCf7T0xrEycIiH1i5WZcuAoiK6H6c3qNt0/s1600/20150211_133855.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's absolutely gorgeous, and I am eternally grateful for the generosity of this friend!</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-77510014949365758852015-02-08T16:04:00.000-05:002015-02-08T16:04:07.562-05:00Vernet 1814: Boots - Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpL-1bnbfNMSsKfgl1-0T9MTzdw_DI7NkxmbHV2Mtr0p0Za9Xu8Qj-vf573EhynRlOUWAOeHvuMZuVnWHk_y2hj0paO74IBKfVs82Wcr5abdqLdhHU1m6fuRZUr9fngDHl5CpCIqHr6iw/s1600/Vernet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpL-1bnbfNMSsKfgl1-0T9MTzdw_DI7NkxmbHV2Mtr0p0Za9Xu8Qj-vf573EhynRlOUWAOeHvuMZuVnWHk_y2hj0paO74IBKfVs82Wcr5abdqLdhHU1m6fuRZUr9fngDHl5CpCIqHr6iw/s1600/Vernet.jpg" height="400" width="398" /></a></div>
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Call me crazy, but I'm actually attempting to make the shoes that are in my Vernet fashion plate. I've been working and reworking mock-ups of my shoes for about 5 months now. I've read and re-read <i>Every Lady Her Own Shoemaker, </i>published anonymously by a Lady in 1855. Most of it is straightforward, but when it comes to working the leather, and attaching the uppers to the sole...I must admit, I am struggling.</div>
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The only other time I attempted to make something even remotely looking like a shoe it was an epic failure. <a href="http://livingwithjane.blogspot.com/2011/06/my-experience-with-cordwaining-aka.html">SEE HERE</a> if you don't believe me. I am hoping and praying that this time I am somewhat more clever than I was then.</div>
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The first step was to find a proper shoe last. Any old last wouldn't do, because shoes in 1814 would have been made with a straight last. In other words, there wasn't a left or right shoe...both would have been the same. Finding an original antique straight last is hard to do. Finding one in my modern shoe size 8 1/2 is even harder. I searched and scoured Ebay and Etsy for weeks, until I came across IT...the golden last...the one that shone and made angels sing...it was perfect (well, close enough)...and it was cheap!</div>
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See how straight it is? No curve in toward one side or another. I'm guessing that this last was made in the early to mid 1800's. </div>
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The only small defect it had was being a tiny bit too short in the heel. So, I altered it with some scrap leather to get the needed size.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZOaLH7w-tZYnH_pSGaCmjdsfvZJa_NINJRUKjrRJ_BUxP40XUVjtNbLyY6kAfdBpZXNlowm4IdTzwDi_Pb8H1gW5ltQNAmULkjfw8zRpEVeocE3VVSYkPnlnDfxO-l0GRkKKBf41I8U/s1600/DSC05219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZOaLH7w-tZYnH_pSGaCmjdsfvZJa_NINJRUKjrRJ_BUxP40XUVjtNbLyY6kAfdBpZXNlowm4IdTzwDi_Pb8H1gW5ltQNAmULkjfw8zRpEVeocE3VVSYkPnlnDfxO-l0GRkKKBf41I8U/s1600/DSC05219.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH5x7MAnHhvEZo6hmQiKhyphenhyphen31am_-KppznrSh_6pxZLOqCQYdpt8bzoyd75b8S-l5ITWpNbE5dJuNwEUw1AHf1gQ79bTktEM4zQkHfegJLV3hrnCIbuHiEg1TUQqwa_Qp4oVZz00rbxfiE/s1600/DSC05220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH5x7MAnHhvEZo6hmQiKhyphenhyphen31am_-KppznrSh_6pxZLOqCQYdpt8bzoyd75b8S-l5ITWpNbE5dJuNwEUw1AHf1gQ79bTktEM4zQkHfegJLV3hrnCIbuHiEg1TUQqwa_Qp4oVZz00rbxfiE/s1600/DSC05220.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once the alterations were done, it worked like a dream. </div>
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Let's see....I've gone through how many mock-ups now trying to get the right cut and size? </div>
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(Ignore the various types of fabrics, I was using up scraps for my mock-ups.)</div>
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<u>Mock-up #1</u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjNi4GOhgMzpmTYFXORVNpg5uXBL1APDKx2ejvBeG94vHCtLme45IYUFBl5Zx5H6siT5xCKac0NG37XPjdRPkp1GebY5Tckg93mGIrTTRvhVqsXVGJ2kArjkpYJPV7AlmGM5yCAMMkQU/s1600/DSC05133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjNi4GOhgMzpmTYFXORVNpg5uXBL1APDKx2ejvBeG94vHCtLme45IYUFBl5Zx5H6siT5xCKac0NG37XPjdRPkp1GebY5Tckg93mGIrTTRvhVqsXVGJ2kArjkpYJPV7AlmGM5yCAMMkQU/s1600/DSC05133.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<u>Mock-up #2</u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Y6r50gNfx16JLih8o5kD3KqQH6UzJzMbuhIHxcaDIkEEUug506_wGPbMzNKEeOz4gglKA9yBZCuvcTzLmQJjoInKOYKavPvqXURclPPPNTZYeGYYefSzt9oeRZ67z5Ioc_e39tEm_CU/s1600/DSC05164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Y6r50gNfx16JLih8o5kD3KqQH6UzJzMbuhIHxcaDIkEEUug506_wGPbMzNKEeOz4gglKA9yBZCuvcTzLmQJjoInKOYKavPvqXURclPPPNTZYeGYYefSzt9oeRZ67z5Ioc_e39tEm_CU/s1600/DSC05164.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<u>Mock-up #3</u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHLdMvmxwfQTaiByYx5fsKLo4mKHWniInDRiKUVRC7GgBS2XS7JN7U5eOOVp0Ua7YmkGCCTnsy_QnODKkVjkIaLRKoNwzlYQ0GlGYEv-oncCQQgNjgs-JvqZdoZqwQbBybsg4AA6IZdQY/s1600/DSC05197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHLdMvmxwfQTaiByYx5fsKLo4mKHWniInDRiKUVRC7GgBS2XS7JN7U5eOOVp0Ua7YmkGCCTnsy_QnODKkVjkIaLRKoNwzlYQ0GlGYEv-oncCQQgNjgs-JvqZdoZqwQbBybsg4AA6IZdQY/s1600/DSC05197.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<u>Mock-up #4</u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg83j1CzLMbw0KaCiiCDaS_fzXJUF_eVatKxRIif_4OkCl1ySWerTvMIDAPt3XYjePt6i5UuElGd9ZixMo6y9SjRTG5F7ESuDM2Hh4jA-sFJHa31zocDz06Fr9YM0zplCkmwloZpsJpR84/s1600/DSC05848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg83j1CzLMbw0KaCiiCDaS_fzXJUF_eVatKxRIif_4OkCl1ySWerTvMIDAPt3XYjePt6i5UuElGd9ZixMo6y9SjRTG5F7ESuDM2Hh4jA-sFJHa31zocDz06Fr9YM0zplCkmwloZpsJpR84/s1600/DSC05848.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Well, if it isn't obvious by now, I should tell you that I'm making boots. Four mock-ups and many frustrated hours later, I finally felt confident enough to cut out the uppers in the real fabric...a heavy weighted black silk, with black cotton drill lining. </div>
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With silk covered buttons attached, I'd say they are looking pretty sharp.</div>
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Now, for a look at the leather soles and how they are coming along...</div>
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Such a mess! I'm nearly ready to call it a day and just GLUE the uppers to the soles in a modern fashion. But...not being one to give up easily, I've ordered a different awl, one made specifically for leather working. Hopefully, this will save my sanity.</div>
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To be continued...</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-27508103877840701112015-01-03T14:44:00.001-05:002015-01-03T14:57:02.686-05:00Vernet 1814: Preparation - Petticoat<div style="text-align: center;">
My first post of the new year, and for the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/vernet1814/timeline">Vernet 1814 project</a>, will be about a very important foundational garment....the petticoat. I already have a long line <a href="http://livingwithjane.blogspot.com/2011/03/regency-stays-revisited-last-timei.html">set of stays</a> that I made a few years ago. I've since altered the straps on the stays...they used to slide easily off of my shoulders, but moving the back seam in toward the lacing solved that problem. I have also made several Regency era petticoats in the past...examples <a href="http://livingwithjane.blogspot.com/2010/05/round-gown-petticoat.html">here</a> and <a href="http://livingwithjane.blogspot.com/2011/03/musings-on-my-mid-1790s-gown.html">here</a> to highlight a couple...but most of my foundational garments have been made with long, floor-length or further, trained, early Grecian inspired gowns from circa 1798-1805. The Vernet gown I will be creating is nearly a decade later, and requires a petticoat that barely reaches beyond mid calf, and is much more streamlined along the waist. I suppose I could have gotten away with wearing my <a href="http://livingwithjane.blogspot.com/2013/07/historical-sew-fortnightly-challenge-13.html">laced bodice petticoat</a>, but the shaping of my Vernet gown is very important to me, and the laced bodice petticoat just wasn't doing it for me, so I decided to start from scratch. </div>
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(original Met petticoat - American, linen, early 19th century)</div>
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One petticoat from <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/81577">The Met Museum collection</a> stood out to me as having the shape and fit I was looking for. So, naturally, I decided to reproduce it. Normally, for the Vernet project, I won't be showing finished garments until December...snippets and construction will be all you will see...but, since this petticoat is not technically one of the fashion plates, I feel it's ok for you to see the whole thing. </div>
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I used linen fabric, and cotton thread. And as everything for this project will be, it was hand sewn. Most of the stitching used in this petticoat were back-stitching or whip-stitching...and of course the blanket-stitch used for the button holes. These days I rarely use patterns, draping and drafting is almost alway what I do to create my garments, and this petticoat was no exception to that. Here's a step-by-step picture tutorial of how I made the petticoat.</div>
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Part one: Drafting the bodice.</div>
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Part two: Sewing together the bodice.</div>
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My quality inspector, Owen. He reserves judgement until the very end.</div>
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Part three: The skirt - Pleating and tucks.</div>
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Part four: Attaching the skirt to the bodice - finished petticoat.</div>
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A simple garment, but now I'm ready to dive into the yummy Vernet 1814 fashion plates!</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-69956312220900304882014-11-21T18:00:00.001-05:002014-11-21T18:17:15.541-05:00It's Official....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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...yes, it's happening. I am participating in the Vernet's 1814 Merveilleuses and Incroyables project! I am over-the-moon thrilled to have been invited to be a part of this group...humble, and feeling a bit unworthy...but uber-excited none-the-less! 2015 is going to be a wacky costuming year. Best of luck figuring out which outfit I will be creating! Although posts on construction and research will be regular throughout the following year, the final outcome won't be published until December of 2015. PLEASE share in this journey with me by following along not only here but on the group's <a href="https://www.facebook.com/vernet1814">Facebook Page</a>. </div>
Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-88982626586478105982014-11-18T11:27:00.000-05:002014-11-18T11:27:25.755-05:00More Embroidery: 1730's style<div style="text-align: center;">
I've been keeping my hands busy with crewelwork embroidery for the past two months, and here are the results...</div>
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...an early American seat cushion design from the 1730's...only I made this one into a pillow. </div>
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I got the pattern from <a href="http://aliciapaulson.com/">Alicia Paulson's book</a> "Embroidery Companion." I'm loving this book...so many wonderful things to decorate! I'm sure you will be seeing more. Embroidery is a fantastic way to pass the time during the long, cold, winter nights. Sign on to Netflix, start a long series, and away the needle and thread go.</div>
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Also, for fun (and because I live in a chilly Victorian beast of a house) I embroidered some hot-water bottle covers...design also from Paulson's book. Snowflakes and fur trees...mmmm...cozy.</div>
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Two of our three furry butts approve.<br />
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-17287390395470347752014-11-08T17:14:00.001-05:002014-11-08T17:14:52.828-05:0018th Century: Caraco Jacket (No more Mrs. Claus)<div style="text-align: center;">
A <a href="http://livingwithjane.blogspot.com/2014/05/18th-century-caraco-jacket-aka-mrs-claus.html">few months ago</a> I made an 18th century Caraco Jacket, but it turned out looking more like something Mrs. Claus would wear than something I would wear. Remember this?</div>
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Well, it took some time before I found the courage to redo it, but I finally got around to it knowing that I needed something to wear to the 18th century market fair at <a href="http://locustgrove.org/18th-century-market-fair-schedule/">Locust Grove</a>. I stripped off all of the white trim and completely redid the green trim on the sleeves. </div>
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Here are some pictures of me at the event...it was a gorgeous Autumn day. Other than needing a few extra pins in the front to keep it from wrinkling, and possibly a larger bum roll, I think it turned out rather well. </div>
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Thank you, Laura for being my paparazzi! </div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-75771026349608796192014-10-19T19:34:00.000-04:002014-10-19T19:34:06.661-04:00Historical Food Fortnightly: Challenge #10: Let Them Eat Cake<div style="text-align: center;">
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I've been a <a href="http://historicalfoodfortnightly.blogspot.com/">Historical Food Fortnightly</a> absentee for the past few weeks. It has been quite a busy Autumnal season for me. I did manage to make this decadent cake in time for the 10th challenge...but didn't have the chance to post about it until today. </div>
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I made a Devil's Food Cake for a Gothic/Macabre/Melancholy themed tea party that I hosted at my house. Details and pictures of my dining room set for the occasion are below. Unfortunately, I don't have pictures of the participants. We were a small group, after a series of unfortunate events caused several of us to have to back out.</div>
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Not much time left in the day, so I'll make this post short and sweet. (pun intended)</div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">The Challenge: </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; vertical-align: baseline;">Let them eat cake: Devil's Food Cake</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">The Recipe: </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; vertical-align: baseline;">Devil's Food, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/26323">The Suffrage Cook Book</a><i>, </i>by Mrs. L.O. Kleber</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-weight: bold; line-height: 1.15; vertical-align: baseline;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; line-height: 1.15; vertical-align: baseline;">Pennsylvania, 1915</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 17.25px;">Chocolate Butter Icing, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/9938">Woman's Institute Library of Cookery</a>, Date?, Place?</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">How Did You Make It: </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">Cake Ingredients</span></div>
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<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">2 cups brown sugar</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">2 eggs</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">3 cups flour</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">1/2 cup boiling water</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">1/2 cup sour cream</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">1/2 cup butter</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">1/2 cup grated chocolate</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">1 1/2 teaspoons soda</li>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">Instructions</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">Dissolve soda in boiling water and pour over chocolate and let cool. Beat butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs and other things. Bake in layers. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">(I baked at 350 degrees for 30 minutes in two 9" round cake pans, per <a href="http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/food-network-kitchens/devils-food-cake-recipe.html">THIS</a> modern recipe.)</span></span></div>
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<b>Icing Ingredients</b></div>
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<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: center;">1 tablespoon butter</li>
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<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">1 1/2 cups powdered sugar</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">3 tablespoons milk</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">1/2 egg</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">1 ounce chocolate</li>
<li style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">vanilla</li>
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<b>Icing Instructions</b></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: normal;">Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually, moistening with the milk and egg to make the mixture thin enough to spread. Melt the chocolate in a saucepan over hot water and pour into the icing mixture. Add the vanilla. Beat thoroughly and if more sugar or liquid is needed to make the icing thicker or thinner, add until it is of the right consistency to spread.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">Time to Complete:</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; vertical-align: baseline;"> About 45-50 minutes.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">How Successful Was It?: </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; vertical-align: baseline;">It was a very pretty chocolate cake, but extremely sweet and bit on the dry side. Not inedible, but I wouldn't make it again.</span></div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">How Accurate Is It?: </span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;">I followed the recipe exactly as instructed. The only thing modern about it was the time and temperature that I got off of a modern recipe, since the original one didn't state that part.</span></div>
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<h1 class="quoteText" style="background-color: white; color: #181818; font-family: georgia, serif; font-weight: normal; line-height: 18px; margin: 0px 0px 15px; padding: 0px;">
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<span style="font-size: small;">“Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun;</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Conspiring with him how to load and bless</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eves run;</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">To bend with apples the moss’d cottage-trees,</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">And fill all fruit with ripeness to the core;</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">To swell the gourd, and plump the hazel shells</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">With a sweet kernel; to set budding more,</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">And still more, later flowers for the bees,</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Until they think warm days will never cease,</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">For Summer has o’er-brimm’d their clammy cells.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">- John Keats, <i>Ode to Autumn</i></span></div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-48108635815889256822014-09-28T16:14:00.000-04:002014-09-28T17:42:36.610-04:00Ashland 1814 Living History Days<div style="text-align: center;">
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Yesterday, I spent a gorgeous early Fall day at a local historic estate called Ashland. It was <a href="http://henryclay.org/">the home of early 1800's politician Henry Clay.</a> This weekend, Ashland celebrated the 200th anniversary of Henry Clay's involvement in <a href="http://henryclay.org/?p=2547">The Treaty of Ghent.</a></div>
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The current <a href="http://henryclay.org/?page_id=2225">home on the Ashland estate</a> is Victorian, but the floor plan is the original Federal style floor plan. It is unfortunate that photographs are not allowed inside the home. It is a truly stunning place.</div>
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While at the event, I met some beautiful ladies that are a part of <a href="http://www.2ndkentucky1812.com/">the 2nd Regiment Kentucky Volunteer Militia</a>.</div>
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I strolled the wooded grounds and gardens of Ashland, toured the home, and listened to a first person portrayal of Henry Clay's housekeeper. I met a group of quilting ladies who convinced me that I wasn't as bad at quilting as I thought.</div>
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But I spent most of my time at a tea table with my friends <a href="http://zipzipinkspot.blogspot.com/">Natalie</a>, Jill, and Emily, watching the golden leaves of the walnut trees around us drift down in the breeze like schools of fish. My official role during the weekend was to demonstrate embroidery. I have been working for the past month on a 1760's seat cushion crewelwork reproduction. Jill taught about the history of tea, and Natalie and Emily demonstrated wool spinning and weaving. The crowd was small, but very curious and keen to learn. </div>
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I am always surprised and refreshed by the number of children (boys especially) that are interested in learning about sewing, embroidery, weaving and spinning! Children truly do long for the hand crafts of our ancestors. They get so little time and experience with handmade arts these days. It is a way of life that is disappearing, if not already gone, for much of society. As someone who loves art and history, I feel like it's my responsibility to pass on this knowledge to the next generation. I hope that every historical costumer/reenactor feels and does the same. Whatever your craft might be, what you do should not be only for your vain enjoyment, but to lift up and pass on a way of life that is threatened to become extinct.</div>
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Because of the time portrayed, 1812-1814, I finally had the chance to wear the blue velvet spencer that <a href="http://livingwithjane.blogspot.com/2013/01/historical-sew-fortnightly-challenge-1.html">I made a year and a half ago.</a> The day was a bit warm for it, around 80*F, but it fit the era so perfectly that I couldn't resist.</div>
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Overall, I wouldn't have changed a thing about the day except to ask for more time. To say it was pleasant is an understatement. </div>
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P.s. - To see more pictures of the day (and the front of my spencer) check out <a href="http://pictureky.smugmug.com/3D-Galleries/Ashland-1812/44612687_DJsfdZ#!i=3569275275&k=XjN7xgz&lb=1&s=A">THIS PAGE</a> by a local photographer who took pictures of the event in 3D! 3D glasses are a must!</div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-2628567530089852902014-09-16T17:01:00.001-04:002014-09-19T23:59:17.814-04:00Vernet's 1814 Merveilluese and Incroyables<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8851840366251143291.post-34010031960492366032014-08-23T16:00:00.000-04:002014-08-23T16:00:07.679-04:00Historical Food Fortnightly: Challenge #6: Seasonal Foods<div style="text-align: center;">
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This certainly is not as appealing of a recipe as the pies were, but now that I'm back to work teaching, time is not my own. So...seasonal foods...to me, one of my favorite foods of this season are fresh FIGS. This recipe was quick, easy, and delicious in its simplicity. Try it now, if you can, before the beloved fig goes away for another year.</div>
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<b>The Recipe: </b><a href="http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/better_meals_for_less_money/bananas_with_figs_and_nuts.php">Bananas with Figs and Nuts</a>; </div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Better Meals for Less Money </i>by Mary Green</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: medium; font-style: italic;">Ingredients</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-style: italic;">4 bananas</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-style: italic;">4 figs</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-style: italic;">2 tablespoons powdered sugar</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, Lucida, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-style: italic;">1/4 cup chopped nut meats</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: medium; font-style: italic;">Instructions</span></div>
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Peel, scrape, and slice bananas; wash, dry, and chop figs; spread over bananas; sprinkle with sugar and nut meats, and serve with cream. Grape nuts may be used in place of nut meats.</div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">The Date/Year and Region: </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; vertical-align: baseline;">English/American, 1917</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">Time to Complete: </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; vertical-align: baseline;">5 mins</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">How Successful Was It?: </span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; vertical-align: baseline;">It was simple and delicious. The textures complimented each other, and the fresh, wild flavor of the figs went well with the sweet, domesticated banana. To me, it was a healthy dessert.</span></div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold; vertical-align: baseline;">How Accurate Is It?:</span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;"> The only difference between the original recipe and what I made... instead of using cream, I used coconut milk. I try not to each too much dairy. And I wasn't even sure what sort of "cream" they were referring to...heavy cream, or whipped cream, or clotted cream??? Also, I adjusted the quantities, using only 1 banana, two figs, 1 tablespoon powdered sugar, and a sprinkling of chopped walnuts, because I was the only one eating it. </span></div>
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Jennihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11894247974983793889noreply@blogger.com3